Dr Dennis Gross has recently launched a new serum called Ferulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Overnight Serum. I was left perplexed at this launch, considering I’ve already used, repurchased and loved Ferulic Acid + Retinol Brightening Solution. That’s where my quest to decode the formula began (to the best of my ability, neither am I Dr. DG nor am I Chemist!).
As I decoded the ingredients, claims and performance, it made more sense which serum to use by who and when. Whilst the similarity of names throws you off, they’re really intended for different purposes.
OLD – BRIGHTENING SOLUTION
NEW – OVERNIGHT SERUM
|Clinical/Professional Strength Serum||Overnight Serum|
|Sun damage, uneven skin tone, brown spots, scars, overall brightening||Appearance of wrinkles, recovers the look of firmness, and retexturizes skin’s appearance|
|Texture: Colorless Gel Liquid||Texture: Light ‘Creamish’ Serum|
|Packaging: Brown glass bottle with pipette $88 – 30ml||Packaging: Brown plastic bottle with pump (big tick from me) $88 – 30ml|
|Audience: Anyone really with sun damage or uneven skin tone||Audience: Possibly someone with signs of aging, although can be used as a preventative measure too|
|Performance: In my experience of 2 bottles down, I think it is brilliant with overall brightening and dealing with brown spots, and new scars from those bastards we reluctantly welcome each month. Skin appears more refined and even toned.||Performance: In my limited experience (3-4 uses), I think it’s more moisturizing on skin and really an all-round serum. I don’t have visible signs of aging yet (yet being an operative word) so wont be able to comment directly on its claims.|
Ingredient Summary for both formulations:
All hard hitters, performance oriented ingredients are in the beginning of the list, whilst preservatives towards the end (and that’s how it should be!). Making it quite a desirable formulation.
Formulated with Antioxidants and skin Brighteners like Arbutin, derivative of Azelaic Acid, Licorice.
Of course an addition of our beloved acids too, like Ferulic, Salicylic, Glycolic, and Mandelic.
One Word: Niacinamide (listed as Third Ingredient) aka vitamin B3 and nicotinic acid, niacinamide is a potent cell-communicating ingredient that offers multiple benefits for aging skin. Assuming skin is being protected from sun exposure, niacinamide can improve skin’s elasticity, dramatically enhance its barrier function, help erase discolorations, and revive skin’s healthy tone and texture (Source: Beautypedia).
Acids: Ferulic, Gallic, Linoleic, Linolenic, Mandellic, and Lactic
|Water, Ethoxydiglycol (solvent used as thinner), Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (Azelaic Acid Derivative) , Ferulic Acid, Retinol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, Arbutin (skin brightening), Morus Nigra Fruit Extract, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Salicylic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Hexylresorcinol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Panthenol, Quercetin, Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates (derivative of Vitamin E used for scarring), Ubiquinone (Co EnzymeQ10), Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, PVM/MA Decadiene Crosspolymer, BHT, Urea, Polysorbate 20, Potassium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol.||Water, DiCaprylyl Carbonate (plant derived emollient), Niacinamide, Cetyl Alcohol (fatty alcohol aka good alcohol), Propanediol, Isostearyl Alcohol (fatty alcohol aka good alcohol), Jojoba Esters, Retinol, Ferulic Acid, Collagen Amino Acids, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hexylresorcinol, Ellagic Acid (phenol antioxidant), Gallic Acid ( type of phenolic acid, found in gallnuts, sumac, witch hazel, tea leaves, oak bark, and other plants), Silybum Marianum Ethyl Ester, Tocopherol, Phospholipids, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium PCA, Retinyl Palmitate/Carrot Polypeptide, Retinyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglycerin-3, Tricaprylin, Acrylates/Carbamate Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, BHT, Butylene Glycol Cocoate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Xanthan Gum, Ethylcellulose, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Octoxynol-9, Phenoxyethanol.|
One thing I’m yet to try is layering these two fellas, Brightening Solution after toning, followed by Overnight Serum.
Hope you found this ‘distinguishing the serums’ post helpful.