Author: HiddenHarmonyWorld

My Guide to Elemis Moisturizers

0EF7BAD7-7BE4-47D4-A7BC-7BBAB3FBD86B_1_201_aElemis Moisturizers, in my opinion have the best range of moisturizers, that are luxurious, sensory treat to use, and most importantly effective! However they have a fair few to choose from, and here is my breakdown:

🔮Pro Collagen Marine Cream is hailed as the cult / best selling moisturizer from Elemis. It has shown to reduce the depth of wrinkles, improve skin firmness, tone and hydration in 14 days. This is one for all and all for one. Faking good skin is achieved with one, consistency not too dense, easily absorbed, and layers well. Would suit most skin types as it’s not very heavy on EO’s (not to be confused with botanical extracts). Basically a solid moisturizer for night or day.

Inci List – Aqua/Water/Eau, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Isononyl Isononanoate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dimethicone, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Acacia Decurrens (Mimosa) Flower Extract, Rosa Centifolia (Rose) Flower Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylate-13, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Cetyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Polyisobutene, Fragrance (Parfum), Citric Acid, Chlorphenesin, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Disodium EDTA, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Citronellol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil, Cuminum Cyminum Seed Oil, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Limonene. (N)

🔮Pro Collagen Overnight Matrix is slightly more richer than above. This does a little more than just good skin, has visibly improved my barrier and plumped my skin. In terms of ingredients more than moisturizing ingredients (oils, butters, squalane), such as Peptides, Peacock’s tail algae, Microalgae and Wild Indigo Oligosaccharides (helps with hydration and barrier function). This would be lovely for mature skins, or skins needing more oomph with their moisturizer. Beyond basic.

Inci List – Aqua/Water/Eau, Glycerin, Olus Oil/Vegetable Oil/Huile Végétale, Propanediol, Behenyl Alcohol, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Octyldodecanol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Beheneth-25, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Benzoic Acid, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Disodium EDTA, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Rhizobian Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Linalool, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Geraniol, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Chlorphenesin, Plankton Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Citronellol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Caramel, Cinnamomum Camphora (Camphor) Wood Oil, Limonene, Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil, Fragrance (Parfum), Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Menthol, Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Leaf Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Glyceryl Caprylate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Phenylpropanol, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate.

🔮Pro Collagen Oxygenating Night Cream is a delight, my one stop shop. Personally this is my fave of all. A mousse like consistency, smells like a calm night & air scented with blooming white florals. This has helped my skin with visible radiance. Can’t speak to its anti aging benefits but definitely radiant skin. Ingredient wise stellar, Algae & Red Coral, Peacock’s tail algae, Peptide, rich Sesame, Avocado, Jojoba Oils. This is a sensory treat to use, possibly more than the one above and really helps calms me down with a deep breath. Again most skin types can use this but the limiting factor can be the price.

Inci Listm – Aqua/Water/Eau, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Lauryl Laurate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Ethyl Macadamiate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Oil Unsaponifiables, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil Unsaponifiables, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Algae Extract (Red Algae), Acacia Decurrens Flower Extract, Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Oil, Hexapeptide-9, Phenoxyethanol, Cetyl Alcohol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Fragrance (Parfum), Butylene Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Phytosterols, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Disodium EDTA, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Sorbitan Oleate, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Linalool, Citronellol, Tocopherol, Limonene, Geraniol, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Peel Extract, Malic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Mannitol, Sodium Hydroxide, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid, Diatomaceous Earth, Zinc Sulfate.

🔮Peptide Night Recovery Cream-Oil, the entire Peptide4 range from Elemis is around sychronising and following the natural circadian rhythms of the body. While the texture of this is light and fast absorbing I wouldn’t recommend this for sensitive skin given the number of essential oils (Lemon, Orange, Nutmeg, Butter Orange, Coriander) and addition of coconut oil. It does moisturise the skin very very well, and for me that’s where the benefits stop. The consistency reminds me of DrDG Peptide Milk. The scent of this product is wonderful, powered by Night scented stock (flowers that bloom in evening with gorgeous aroma that fills evening air). All in all, the experience & ritual of this cream in oil is truly lovely but the performance is basic moisturizing.

Inci List – Aqua/Water/Eau, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Matthiola Bicornis (Night Scented Stock) Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Panthenol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Fragrance (Parfum), Perilla Ocymoides Seed Oil, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Disodium EDTA, Benzyl Benzoate, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Extract, Linalool, Limonene, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Hexyl Cinnamal, Sodium Benzoate, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil, Myristica Fragrans (Nutmeg) Kernel Oil, Eugenol, Coumarin, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Leaf/Twig Oil, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Peel Oil, Coriandrum Sativum (Coriander) Fruit Oil.

🔮Biotec Skin Energizing Day Cream claims to help increase cell energy. The unique thing about this cream is inclusion of encapsulated Zinc and Copper. It dispenses (pump) the energizer and cream together, mix it together and apply. I wouldn’t recommend this for very sensitive skin given the essential oils. But in terms of performance, layers well under sunscreen, hydrates skin well under makeup, and does all expected from solid day cream. However again, price can be a limiting factor.

Inci List ENERGIZER: Aqua/Water/Eau, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Stearyl Palmitate, Carbomer, Hydrolyzed Xanthomonas Campestris Polysaccharide, Polysorbate 20, Chlorphenesin, Fragrance (Parfum), Hydrated Silica, Disodium EDTA, Zinc, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Copper PCA, Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Leaf Oil, Lauryl Laurate, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Canarium Luzonicum Leaf Extract, Myristica Fragrans (Nutmeg) Kernel Oil, Boswellia Carterii (Frankincense) Oil, Coriandrum Sativum (Coriander) Fruit Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Amber Extract, CI 77400 (Copper Powder).

Inci List CREAM: Aqua/Water/Eau, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Isopropyl Palmitate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Myristyl Myristate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Hexyldecyl Laurate, Hexyldecanol, Cera Alba/Beeswax/Cire d’Abeille, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Coco-Caprylate, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Fragrance (Parfum), Chlorphenesin, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil, Disodium EDTA, Alisma Plantago Aquatica (Water Plantain) Extract, Maris Sal/Sea Salt/Sel Marin, Sodium PCA, Succinic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Propanediol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Seed Extract/Extrait de Semence d’Orge, Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Leaf Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Canarium Luzonicum Leaf Extract, Myristica Fragrans (Nutmeg) Kernel Oil, Boswellia Carterii (Frankincense) Oil, Coriandrum Sativum (Coriander) Fruit Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Limonene, Linalool, Coumarin, Rhizobian Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Amber Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract.

🔮Biotec Skin Energizing Night Cream is the richer version of day cream, imo. For night creams I think they offer a lovely range in pro collagen range, so this is one I have overlooked the most. Not because performance was meh, there was just better option from their range.

Inci List ENERGIZER: Aqua/Water/Eau, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Stearyl Palmitate, Carbomer, Hydrolyzed Xanthomonas Campestris Polysaccharide, Polysorbate 20, Chlorphenesin, Fragrance (Parfum), Hydrated Silica, Disodium EDTA, Zinc, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Copper PCA, Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Leaf Oil, Lauryl Laurate, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Canarium Luzonicum Leaf Extract, Myristica Fragrans (Nutmeg) Kernel Oil, Boswellia Carterii (Frankincense) Oil, Coriandrum Sativum (Coriander) Fruit Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Amber Extract, CI 77400 (Copper Powder).

Inci List CREAM: Aqua/Water/Eau, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Lauryl Laurate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Polysorbate 60, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Phospholipids, Carbomer, Fragrance (Parfum), Chlorphenesin, Stearic Acid, Calcium PCA, Sodium Hydroxide, Maris Sal/Sea Salt/Sel Marin, Succinic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Lactic Acid, Glycerin, Palmitic Acid, Propanediol, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Sodium Anisate, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Seed Extract/Extrait de Semence d’Orge, Phenethyl Alcohol, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium Sorbate, Pogostemon Cablin (Patchouli) Leaf Oil, Copper Gluconate, Boswellia Carterii (Frankincense) Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Myristica Fragrans (Nutmeg) Kernel Oil, Coriandrum Sativum (Coriander) Fruit Oil, Canarium Luzonicum Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Limonene, Linalool, Coumarin, Rhizobian Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Amber Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Citric Acid.

Since this post was originally published, obviously Elemis have launched couple more moisturizers in their range which I have not personally tried yet. however if you have please do share your comments below.

HHW.com

xx

Cleansing & Exfoliating Powders

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We see it everywhere now, cleansing / exfoliating powders. An ancient concept and like many other Asian girls something we took for granted as a part of our childhood. I distinctly remember when I was little, my Mum made a paste and gave me a bath with that paste. Yes all over the body. Many of you will instantly think of garbanzo bean powder, or powdered green mung beans, turmeric and milk or yogurt….yes that’s exactly the ubtan I’m referring to. That exact concoction is also applied to a Indian brides before the wedding. It’s said the ubtan aids exfoliation and imparts glowing flawless skin.

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So you ask, well explain what is an Ubtan? As per ancient Ayurvedic principles and texts, it is roots, flowers, mud, clays grounded and mixed in a powder form. The benefits are endless – Natural ground powders of clay, mud, roots, flowers, spices, salts, lentils, dried fruit skin’s which can be mixed with rose water, milk, honey, yogurt whatever your skin and heart desires. Aids exfoliation, helps with glow, wonderful cleanser, incredibly cost effective however there are plenty of options to splurge on. Multi purpose as it can be cleanser or mask or an exfoliator.

Finally, the western world of skincare has caught on, well more specifically ‘western natural skincare world or green beauty world’, call it what you may! I’ve noticed three distinct categories of this, western skincare entirely, western brands inspired by Ayurvedic principles and then of course eastern brands that are entirely based on Ayurvedic principles and elaborate methods of preparation.

From May Lindstrom to Leah Lani, they’ve all formulated a version of their very own and sold as cleansing powder or exfoliating powder. The ingredients are varied between brands but after a while you tend to see a consistent trend (albeit with slightly different proportion and formulation).

Westernized Versions (bold ingredients are common)

May Lindstrom – The Clean Dirt ($60 for 200ml)
white halloysite clay, red morrocan rhassoul clay, sea salt, vitamin c, sodium bicarb, marshmallow root, spices like cinnamon, clove, turmeric, ginger, vanilla and cacao

Leah Lani – Kalima Cleansing powder  ($46 for 100ml)
coconut milk, brown rice, clay powders, guava fruit, banana, camu camu, rosehip, honeysuckle, sea salt, hibiscus, vanilla, rose, vitamin c

de Mamiel Brightening Cleanse & Exfoliate ($60 for 70g)

rhassoul clay, rose clay, sodium bicarbonate, white clay, oat flour, vitamin c, cocoa, rose, himalayan cedar wood, sandalwood, frankincense, vanilla, elderflower, marshmallow, grape, cucumber, calendula, german chamomile, gotu kola, ginseng, chrysanthemum and horsetail

Farmacy New Day Exfoliating Grains ($30 for 100g)

sodium cocoyl isethionate, corn starch, sodium bicarbonate, cranberry, water, adzuki seed, vitamin c, camellia, carrot, echinacea, glycerin, lemon willow bark, spiraling powder

One Love Brand New Day ($39 for 48g)

zea mays (corn) starch, pisum sativum (pea) flour, sodium cocoyl glutamate, kaolin, ananas comosus (pineapple) fruit extract, fragrance/parfum

The common ingredients that overlap between some of these products are Sodium Bicarbonate (resulting in fizzy emulsion making it more appealing & fun), Sea Salt, Vitamin C, Marshmallow Root, and Clay Powders. The first three ingredients mentioned is what clearly sets the Western Cleansing Powders apart from traditional Ayurvedic ubtans which are far more gentler on skin and dare I say far more “green” for skin! In my experience and opinion, Sodium Bicarbonate, Sea Salt and Vitamin C (assuming its pure Ascorbic Acid powder) can be very harsh on sensitive and sensitized skins.

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Coming to my second category, which is western skincare brand based on Ayurvedic principles and ingredients. This brings me to Mauli Rituals Radiance Exfoliant and Mask (£36.00 for 30gms or 1oz).

The inch list truly excites me, with inclusion of Fullers Earth Clay (that unmissable sweet scent),  Rose petal powder,  Sandalwood powder, Turmeric powder, Vetiver powder, Kashmiri Saffron, Asparagus, Sandalwood Oil, Rosehip,  Rose Absolute, Kashmiri Saffron Extract.

Works wonderfully as cleanser, exfoliant or mask. Versatile in use and mixing base. The luxurious  ingredient listing is much closer to authentic Ayurvedic ingredients with a clear exclusion of Sodium Bicarb, Sea Salt or any other skin stripping harsher elements.

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Closer to Ayurvedic Texts, Principles, and Ingredients

Forest Essentials ($18-$20 for 60g)
Tejasvi Milk – neem, cinnamon, fennel powder, sweet almond meal, sandalwood oil, fenugreek powder, peepal extract, anantmool powder, apricot kernel, saffron, durva extract and milk
Soundarya – orange peel, rose, jasmine, neem, oatmeal, sandalwood, turmeric, fennel, anantmool, saffron flower, lemon peel and star anise.
Multani Mitti  (my personal FAVE) – fullers clay, neem, turmeric, fenugreek seed powder, lodhra bark, woodfordia powder and banyan bark powder
Narangi (Orange) & Nagkesar (Messua ferrea) – orange peel, marigold flower, licorice root, messua ferrea, bala root, vetiver, ashwagandha, durva, neem, brahmi leaf, anantmool and cinnnamon
Roop Nikhar & Gulab (Rose) – lentil seed, rose, ornage peel, oatmeal, anantmool root, neem, katsuya powder,turmeric, saffron, cinnamon

Kama Ayurveda ($22 for 40g)

Mridul (face & body) – oatmeal, green gram, almond, neem, sandalwood, turmeric, rose and fennel.

PurEarth ($60 for 100g)
Turmeric Exfoliating Face Sand – Bitter apricot kernels, fullers earth clay, persian walnut, neem, turmeric, pomegranate, lavender, rose, seabuckthorn berry, and saffron

The web is also inundated with several DIY recipes, of which garbanzo bean powder,  mung bean powder, turmeric and milk or ghee is by far the most popular. However based on your skin’s needs, concerns and what’s available in your kitchen, these ingredients can also be used: Oatmeal, almond meal, rice flour, sandalwood powder, fenugreek powder, turmeric, grounded spices (cinnamon, clove, star anise, though not recommended to sensitive or reactive skins). Mixing bases may include purified water, steam distilled rose or any other flower water, full cream milk, cream, yogurt, honey, lemon juice, aloe vera juice, witch hazel, vinegar.

Ultimately it filters down to what your skin needs, how much are you willing to spend, where your brand loyalties lie, your preferences with traditional ubtan or westernized  version or a happy medium between western and eastern etc. Personally I’ve tried homemade Grandma’s ubtan recipes to modern Ayurvedic shops like Forest Essentials and Kama Ayurveda. My personal preference lies with more traditional format minus Vitamin C, Sodium Bicarb, Sea Salt.

HHW.com

xx

Kate Somerville Liquid ExfoliKate® Triple Acid Resurfacing Treatment

fullsizeoutput_2051As I was scrolling through my 5,000 odd photos on camera roll, I discovered I took this picture on 20th January 2019 with an intent to posting a review and comparison of new (well relatively) Kate Somerville  Triple Acid Resurfacing Treatment. Many know, I loved and adored Clinic to go (CTG) pads, which were Lactic Acid clinic however those were discontinued and made way for this new exfoliator.

Inci list analysis – the new one claims to have 10% triple acid action (Glycolic, Lactic & Malic), it also includes many others ingredients to soften the acid blow. Second ingredient being Geranium water. While CTG straight hit on Lactic acid, Witch Hazel and Onion Bulb extract. As stinky as it may sound, Onion bulb extract was also used in Biologique Recherche P50. The CTG inci list was short and included ingredients that really packed a punch in terms of performance. While the new one, in addition to acids, also includes enzymes (papain – papaya, bromelain – pineapple), peptide, honey extract. More than just exfoliating ingredients for the skin skin.

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Top Inci List – Triple Acid Exfoliator, Bottom Inci List – Clinic to go

Performance reflects the inci list precisely. The triple acid exfoliator while nice, is a lot gentler on skin. An everyday acid, without damaging the barrier (of course be guided by your individual skins). But with this formulation it is hard to over do it. Quite the contrary to CTG, not an every night treatment and used 2 times a week it really made a significant impact. I don’t have my pH testing kit on hand, but Beautypedia claims it hit pH4.35 (which isn’t in the optimal acid function zone), and hence the gentler effect. The experience of using it is pleasant, smells a lot nicer than CTG, the obvious scent of Geranium water. Pumped on cotton pad, dabbed all over and done. While CTG were individually packaged pads, making it convenient for travel. The new bottle is a pretty frosted glass bottle, omitting itself from being a travel companion (unless you’re planning road trip;) )

Long story short, triple acid doesn’t mean wham bam strong. This is a far more gentler formula suitable for entry level acid folks. As for me I will continue bitterly missing Clinic to go pads. Fully knowing that isn’t going to come back, I like layering triple acid with Kate Somerville’s RetAsphere (retinol and glycolic cream). 

HHW.com

xx

My Guide to January Labs

CompleteJanuary Labs, the brain child of January Olds. A brand born out of a necessity for simpler, purer products with much greater transparency about their ingredients. Her simple belief, that skincare doesn’t need to be complicated is well reflected in her range and formulation. I’ve had an opportunity to explore, try, experiment with most of the products from this brand and below is my experience, review and recommendations.

Before taking a deep dive in reviews, below is a quick overview of where this leads:

What I adore about this brand? Absence of Glycolic acid in formulations, and resurrection of Witch Hazel. Plus the basic-ness and simplicity of formulation and range of products offered. If you’re a far call from true blue skincare junkie, this is your brand. Also the products are easily versatile, and compatible with products from other brands.

What I don’t adore about this brand? The claims on products are tad OTT, definitely not the first brand to do so (hold no grudge here people). There is much more to love here than loathe. There are more hits, than misses.

Definite, Highly, Strongly, Recommend for every single one, all skin types – Retexturing Night Cream, Restorative Tonic Mist

My skin hates/allergic/sensitive to Glycolic Acid – Brightening Tonic, Restorative Tonic Mist, Retexturing Night Cream

My skin could give any reptile a run for its money, so bloody dry, flaky and dehydrated – Brightening Tonic, Moisture Renew Mask, Revitalizing Day Cream

You could miss out on these and not sweat – Pure and Gentle Cleansing Gel, Glow & Go Power Peel Exfoliant

Cleansing GelStarting a simple routine with a cleanser called the Pure & Gentle Cleansing Gel. This cleanser claims to be gentle, non drying facial wash. To which I would add, a light citrus scented gel based cleanser, which builds to a light to medium foam. I typically used it in the mornings or as a second cleanse in evening. While I tried removing makeup, it didn’t do so well with a full face/intensive makeup face. So if you’re light basic makeup wearer you might be fine with it. This cleanser doesn’t need a washcloth, however after splashing and cleansing with water it left a soapy feel on my skin. Initially I thought it might be the quantity of cleanser I was using however that wasn’t the case. Despite its foaming action, I noticed it did not strip or dry my skin’s barrier and that can be squarely attributed to its formulation (addition of Aloe juice, Glycerin, Vitamin E, Phospholipids, Macadamia Glycerides, Sodium PCA).

Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate (Sugar Based), PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Coco/Isostearamide, Lauryl Glucoside (Plant Derived), Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Plant Derived), Glycerin (Plant Derived), Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate), Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A Palmitate), Pinus Strobus Bark Extract, Phospholipids, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Shea Butter, Macadamia Glycerides, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C Palmitate), Sodium PCA, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Oil, Chamomilla Recutita Flower/Leaf (Chamomile) Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf (Green Tea) Extract, Citric Acid.

Moving onto the masks category from this range, starting with Glow & Go Power PeelPeel Exfoliant. This is not a peel exfoliant in the typical sense with hyper charged alpha hydroxy acids or enzymes. I see this product more of stimulant and booster for skin. It also claims to revitalize and brighten the complexion which I didn’t notice in my personal experience. Sadly, both the inci list and performance fell short. I’ve tried the regular and pro version of this peel and the results varied in terms of what gave me most tingle and flush. Or you could say oomph of blood circulation. The thick-ish gel consistency spreads nicely but had to be removed with washcloth and not much to report in terms of results. One cautionary warning, sensitive skinned people should be careful using Cinnamon oil in this formulation, as it may irritate the heck out of your skins. All in all, for USD $75 there are better peel alternatives available.

Ingredients: Water, Hypromellose, Phenol (magic ingredient in Biologique Recherche P50 1970, for numbness), Cinnamon Oil (stimulate the skin and increase circulation), Potassium Sorbate, Chloroxylenol, Grapefruit Extract (purifier, antiseptic, and preservative).

The other mask has quite the opposite performance effect, the Moisture Renew Mask. Everything as the name suggests. Rich delectable cream consistency, can be used as hydration mask or an overnight mask, works wonderfully. If I took the liberty of renaming this mask, I’d rather call it ‘Overnight Barrier Repair Mask’ (overnight plump skin). In this case, the formulation and results are directly proportionate, lusciousness of Squalane, Hyaluronic Acid, Lactic Acid, Linoleic Acid (making it suitable for acne prone skins), Vitamin E balanced with Green tea antioxidant and Cucumber extract for anti inflammatory property. The richness of Avocado oil (rich in Oleic acid – a very healthy fat), is balanced with Linoleic acid rich oil such as Sunflower Seed Oil. This mask is a wonderful formulation to combat both dehydration and lack of moisture (aka, nourishment and hydration).

Ingredients: Water, Squalane, Avocado Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Sunflower Seed Oil, Aloe Leaf Juice, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Glycerin, Lactic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Apricot Seed, Corn Sugar, Sulfonic Acid, Palm Oil, Saccharide Isomerate, Shea Butter, Vitamin E, Sage Leaf Extract, Chamomile Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Coconut Oil, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Green Tea Leaf Extract, Cucumber Fruit Extract.

Next up is the Daily Brightening Tonic, an exfoliating treatment that claims to hydrate while stimulating collagen production. Strong claim and I will reel it back just a touch, look at this product as a gentle, everyday use acid toner that will serve skin other benefits too. While I don’t take fancy to the claims description, the toner itself is quite nice. A simple (in terms of formulation) or basic, every day use, Lactic Acid based toner with other ingredients to help gentle exfoliation (cell turnover) for even the sensitive skinned (all skin type suitable). If Glycolic Acid is no no for you, you will love and adore this toner. No sensitized skin, no harshness of poorly formulated acid based toner and all in all a gentle toner. As simple as that! My skin loved this one particularly on night’s I don’t want to use strong peel pad (i.e. Alpha H Liquid Gold, DrDG, Murad, Biologique Recherche). This one broke it up nicely during the week along with Zelens PHA Pads.

Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel), Sodium PCA, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Lactic Acid, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Glycerin, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Black Tea) Leaf Extract, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower (ORGANIC Chamomile) Extract, Salvia Sclarea (Clary) Extract

Tonic and MistAfter an acid toner, follows a refreshing generous mist of Restorative Tonic Mist. One of the first products I ever tried from this brand and I instantly liked it. One of the reasons I really like this is because of its use of Witch Hazel, as simple as that. In our fancy skincare world or #beautycommunity no one really appreciates good ol’ Witch Hazel anymore. And this is where this product stands out. However not basic Dickinson’s Witch Hazel, this is blended in with more goodness of Aloe Juice, Sodium PCA, Rose Oil extract, Glycerin, Panthenol, Licorice extract, Gotu Kola extract and Marigold extract. Doesn’t dry skin, wonderful in skincare routine or over makeup, or as mid day refresher without sucking hydration from skin. All skin type suitable, all situation suitable, simple packaging and mists nicely. Misting is not as fine as a cloud, but not a water gun either. I particularly love using this on my scalp too!!!

Ingredients: Aqua (Water), Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel), Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice, Sodium PCA, Rosa Damascena Flower (Rose) Oil Extract, Glycerin, Sodium Lactate, Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5), Horse Chestnut Extract, Ruscus Aculeatus (Butcher’s Broom) Root Extract, Linalool, Licorice Extract, Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Extract, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Calendula Officinalis (Marigold) Flower Extract, Geraniol, Citral

An incredibly rich day cream, that sparks a love hate relationship in me, RevitalizingDay Cream Day Cream. Rich it is, but lightweight cream, that works nicely under makeup and no piling either. Wonderful when I may have overdone an acid or retinol night before, or indulged in bottle full/emptied libations. But on regular mornings, too rich for my skin in a humid summer morning. Within couple of hours, my skin is a reflection of a frying pan causing an avalanche of makeup (not a good look). The jury is out on how this performs with my skin as we get into winter. The inci list boasts some nice and notable ingredients with Niacinamide, antioxidants, Hyaluronic acid. The incident list also explains the rich formulation with inclusion of Vitamin E, Borage Oil, Grape seed oil,  Shea Butter. This would be particularly nice for dry skinned folks. I wish it was touch lighter, seems like it is trying too hard for a day cream and it would work for larger population.

Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Beantree Oil, Beta-Glucan, Verbena Officinalis Extract, Hydrolyzed Soybean Fiber, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Stearyl Alcohol, C14-22 Alcohols, Tocopheryl Acetate, Allantoin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract, Silybum Marianum (Milk Thistle) Extract, Pinus Pinaster Bark (Maritime Pine) Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Extract, Glycerin, Euterpe Oleacea Fruit Extract, Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Extract, Aristotelia Chilensisui Fruit Extract, Aronia Arbutifolia/Aronia Melanocarpa (Chokeberry) Fruit Extract, Garcinia Mangostana Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Oil

Night CreamOn the other hand, Retexturizing Night Cream is a treasure in the chest of night creams. Rich but easily absorbing cream, enriched with Lactic Acid…exfoliating in a beautiful rich formula, truly retexturizing, which rings true to its name. This one works stand alone as ‘one stop shop’ or layers perfectly with a host of other steps in night skin routine. Absolutely adore this cream, with 9% Lactic acid, Peptides, Beta Glucan, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic acid is rightfully the work horse. My skin appears so healthy and balanced the following morning. The gentle exfoliation coupled with ingredients that help repair and build the barrier.

Water (Aqua), Lactic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Sodium Lactate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Verbena Officinalis Extract, Beta Glucan (smooths fine lines and wrinkles), Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii, Glycerin, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Soybean Fiber, Niacinamide, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Oil, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum.

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* Products gifted by brand

All in all, a solid brand offering a well thought out and executed range of products (even with a couple of misses). Also important to note is the price point across the board making it accessible to many more with good visible performance and results. One could say, the skimping point on price point would be thanks to the largely plastic packaged bottles. While not packaged in fancy glass bottles or miron glass jars, the packaging is practical and works, which is of prime importance.

HHW.com

xx

Perfume Review – Floral Street Black Lotus

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Floral Street is a London brand, basically disrupting the perfume industry as we know it. The brand claims it is about ease, modernity and joy.

  1. Introducing The FragranceBlack Lotus is a unisex fragrance launched in 2017. The nose behind this fume is Jerome Epinette (also behind many Atelier Cologne fragrances, Byredo, Bjork & berries, Commodity Velvet, Vilhelm Parfumerie and even some Zara fumes). Basic expectation in the brief suggests Rose, Pink Pepper and Saffron. Also suggests this fume is for wild, feisty, rebellious and intoxicating personality (agree with every single one of em).
  2. Notes Composition – Thick rose & saffron jam enveloped in deep, warm, spicy notes. Florals used in this are Centifolia Rose, Narcotic Musk and Patchouli. To me the opening, screams with rose and pink peppercorn. Few seconds later, the patchouli opens with this spicy warmth and final dry down is spicy saffron with very noticeable leather (which I think makes the perfume last much longer).  
  3. Wake & Strength – Sillage is definitely strong on this one, enough to make heads turn and follow/stalk you. Projection in my view is also on stronger side, our waiter while taking the order was able to comment on the fragrance, so surely strong. The longevity is wonderful and long (as you’d expect from eau de parfum, and indicates strong base notes in the composition), overnight in my instance. When shower steam hits the skin, it is an intoxicating scent.
  4. Presentation, Packaging & Value – The bottle itself is beautiful, surely screams Floral based on presentation. The ergonomics of holding the bottle and spritzing is very comfortable. Understandably it is quite a subjective area, but it would appeal to wider audience. One of most important aspect, the atomizer, how does it mist? It’s mediocre, while not a water gun, the mist is also not a cloud. Outer packaging is typically thrown away, rarely do we keep boxes. In light of that, the brand have chosen a responsible and sustainable choice of recyclable, bio degradable boxes. The fume is valued at £58.00, AUD$109 – 50ml Eau de Parfume, I think is really good value.
  5. Third Party Feedback – I have worn this fragrance around my family and friends, during day and evening time. Most of the feedback I’ve received has been positive, however received one remark that it is properly strong and can be easily overdone. Not necessarily a bad comment, just need to tread carefully (one to two spritzes and that’s it). 
  6. Audience Suitability – While I’m not one to categorize a perfume based on age, I see this to be worn by slightly more mature and wild personalities (20 year old can also have a mature responsibility). As the brief suggested, wild, feisty, rebellious and intoxicating, it hits on the spot. I don’t see a unicorn and glitter loving person to fall for this fragrance. If you like sparkly, fruity perfume, this is not it. If you love deep, spicy, warm tobacco, this is You!. This fragrance is surely an evening, or night time fragrance for me. Occassion I would limit this is to romantic evening or an evening with friends, formal event and surely steer away from office wear, or morning wear (could nauseate someone with a sensitivo nose).
  7. Seasonality – I think this fragrance will particularly excel in autumnal or winter evening, given it has this warmth to it and cosiness to it. This will be overpowering for humid and hot evening. Almost too much to put you off. 
  8. Scoring and Conclusion – overall my rating for this is 3.9/5 – losing a point, purely for its limited versatility across seasons, occasions and day time wear. 

*product gifted

HHW.com

xx