Serums & Treatments

SkinBetter AlphaRet Overnight Cream

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SkinBetter a skincare brand converging beauty and science. The skinbetter science team of aesthetic experts who developed Restylane® and Dysport® have a comprehensive approach to age management and skin care. One of their best selling products the AlphaRet® Overnight Cream claims to go to work while the skin is at rest, to visibly reduce the appearance of lines, wrinkles and uneven skin tone. This formula is supercharged with AlphaRet, with unique combination of Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) and a Retinoid to create a revolutionary double conjugated retinoid.

Let’s cut to the chase and get into the nitty gritty of this product:

fullsizeoutput_4036Major props to this brand for Packaging, in an air tight container, with no sun or light exposure, no bacteria exposure through fingers and  nails, sleek and elegant colour scheme packaging. Once you hold the bottle its light plastic bottle but does a darn good job for aforementioned reasons.

In addition to the bottle, it also has a solid box casing with all benefits, claims and ingredients listed on the box. In saying so, the website is transparent with its inci lists so no hide and seek games there.

Talking about inci lists, lets dive in the best part of the review:

Aqua/Water, Sodium Glycolate, Glycolic Acid, Cetearyl Olivate, Pentylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Isohexadecane, Sorbitan Olivate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Glycerin, Ceresin, Glycol Palmitate, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Squalane, Methyl Gluceth-20, Ethyl Lactyl Retinoate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ceramide NP, Hyaluronic Acid, Ubiquinone, Tocopherol, Bisabolol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Superoxide Dismutase, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Allantoin Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Sodium PCA, Panthenol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Linoleic Acid, Cholesterol, Linolenic Acid, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Steareth-2, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Hydrated Silica, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Tromethamine, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891).

Star performers in the formulation include, Ethyl lactyl retinoate (a proprietary blend of lactic acid and retinoids that exfoliates and boosts collagen production); Squalane, Niacinamide, Ceramides, and Fatty acids (moisturize). Last few ingredients are preservatives or consistency improvers, and this is the exact place you would want to see these ingredients.

Ingredient to be perceived negative or potentially congestion inducing for many is addition of Shea butter, however in this formulation is works beautifully to moisturize the skin without irritating or congesting it.

Skin Type: I would say absolutely any skin could use it except for super sensitive, or eczema prone skin.

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The dispensed product feels like light whipped cream, 2 pumps is sufficient for face however 3 needed to take it all the way down to neck. Following with an oil or balm and no peeling, rolling or piling experienced. Wonderful to layer products with. In a typical skin care routine, this is the order I would take it in:

Makeup Removal – Second Cleanse – Mild Acid or Essence patting – Hydrating Serum – SkinBetter AlphaRet Intensive Cream – Oil/Balm.

To be 100% transparent and honest with you, this product was not instant love for me. I used it 3-4 times and set it aside thinking its not doing much for my skin. So first point to be noted here is Consistency of use to see visible results. Also why this may not have performed on my skin first 3-4 times like many others is because my skin is extremely in tune with potent AHAs and Retinoids, standalone as well as combination. Hence it didn’t blow me away in first few uses.

Fast forward to few weeks later, on a work travel trip, I committed to using it for 2 weeks straight with a basic hydrating serum, and BAM there I fell in love. I truly saw the product’s performance capability. So lets go through its claims and benefits and see if it stood true.

Benefits, Claims, Performance & Results

  • A significant reduction in the appearance of depth and size of wrinkles in as little as four weeks, with little to no irritation.

Fortunately I don’t have deep line or wrinkles on my face, so cannot speak to it. However I experienced absolutely no irritation on the skin, in fact left it moisturized even on nights when I didn’t follow with an oil, cream or balm.

  • Glycolic acid helps retexturize and increase the efficacy of AlphaRet

Yes Yes Yes it surely worked to improve my skin’s tone and texture. It felt more taut and clear of congestion.

  • A targeted peptide blend acts synergistically with AlphaRet resulting in fewer visible age lines.

Not qualified in this area to provide an opinion.

  • An ultra hydrating blend of squalane, niacinamide, ceramides, fatty acids provides deep moisture to help counteract the dryness associated with traditional retinoid based products.
  • A trilogy of skin soothing ingredients including allantoin glycyrrhetinic acid, bisabolol and portulaca extract provides a sensation of calmness.
  • A potent blend of antioxidants helps provide protection against free radicals.

For the last three bullets, the combination has surely worked to improve my skin’s overall health. I view this product as a crockpot of goodness, brimming with healthy, boosting, and skin health improving ingredients.

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Now for the million dollar question,  what is the difference between regular AlphaRet and Intensive version, well its really simple! The order/potency of their Second – Sodium Glycolate (salt of Glycolic Acid) and Third – Glycolic Acid is swapped to make it “intensive” and stand true to its name. All ingredients thereafter are exactly the same and in the exact same order too.

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The availability and price may deter some from this product. Available through professional physicians and at USD $110. For the well researched, this is not the only product in the market that has combined AHAs with Retinoid, however what sets it apart is the addition of peptides, antioxidants and a blend of squalane, niacinamide, ceramides, and fatty acids. A well rounded, one stop shop treatment for skin. In my view, its definitely worth the dough, as it captures most skincare needs in one product unless you have a very specific concern.

HHW.com

xx

Jordan Samuel Skincare

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My earliest memory of Jordan Samuel product is Water you Waiting for? A lush toner with Rose, Jasmine, Sage and Orange. Sadly a horrid turn of events he discontinued the toner. For the longest time I did not look at his newly launched skincare for the grudge I held,  with a hope he would bring it back. The pics below take me down memory lane when I regularly used his toner in my routine and also a part of my early IG journey. Sadly that hasn’t happened however the line he has includes a gorgeous gel to oil cleanser, hydrating serum and moisturizing 0il. All in all one perfect capsule collection.

Plié Cleanser is a unique gel to oil formula uses olive, jojoba, and grape seed oils to remove every trace of makeup (including hard to remove stage makeup), while sugarcane, apple and willow bark extracts provide a gentle exfoliation to leave the skin hydrated, soft and absolutely pristine.

I’ve used this cleanser both to remove makeup, second cleanse and morning cleanse. Each time it has performed splendidly. Dispensed as thick manageable gel, converts to oil once massaged on skin. The scent is citrusy, more grapefruit to my nose although I dont see grapefruit specifically. Ahhh the best part is emulsifying this cleanser, milky yumminess. Either rinse with water and pat dry or hot cloth this cleanser. Can also be used as a mask, leave it on for few minutes and carry on with your chores. This cleanser is a dupe for Botanics Hydration Burst Dual Action Cleanser with some similar ingredients. If you’d like to take up the ante, Algenist Genius Anti Aging Melting Cleanser is similar option but steeper in price. If you’re interested in a comparison post between these cleansers, leave a comment below.

Ingredients: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Glycerin, Water, Sucrose Laurate, Propanediol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Symphytum Officinale (Comfrey) Rhizome/Root Extract, Anthemis Noblis (Chamomile) Flower Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Citrus Fruit Extract Blend, Simmodsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caprylhyroxamic Acid, Capryl Glycol
Ingredient wise its a clean sheet, some lovely moisturizing ingredients to start with and followed by some yummy fruit extracts and essential oils. Moving onto next step in routine to Hydrate Serum. Water are you waiting for? toner would have been perfect insert here. Just saying.!
Hydrate Serum will bathe your thirsty cells in humectants and soothing botanicals to keep your skin working in the same way! Hyaluronic acid, stabilized Vitmain C, and hexapeptides combine with cucumber, tamarind, and passion flower extracts to give you healthy, dewy skin all day long.

Ingredients: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice *Organic, Vegetable Glycerin *Organic, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Xanthan gum (thickener), Gluconolactone, Tamarindus Indica (Tamarind) Fruit Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Passiflora Incarnata (Passion flower) Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-51 Amide, Sodium Benzoate, Salix Nigra (Willow) Bark Extract *Organic

Exactly as it claims. I can wrap up this review in just those first four words, but perhaps I should elaborate tad more. Ingredient listing is simple, no faffing around with complex names or unnecessary ingredients. Only one we could talk about is Xantham Gum, very common ingredient and used here as a thickener to give it gel like consistency rather than runny liquidy serum. A clear gel consistency serum, dispensed through pipette, absorbs in skin immediately. I’ve used it various ways, here’s a snapshot:

  • Under makeup it piles on however, varies with different base products used
  • Mixed with an oil, its one stop shop.
  • Mixed with a cream, again one stop shop.
  • Layered with other serums and performs just as well – straight after acid tone.

If I had to nitpick I’d say, pump packaging please….to which I’m told is work in progress.

étOILe is an all-encompassing moisturizer, multivitamin and antioxidant facial oil. It contains a high concentration of cranberry seed oil, which is the only oil to contain a 1:1 ratio of omega 3 and 6 fatty acids, as well as all 8 vitamin E groups. It also features skin balancing Argan and Marula, which pair with vitamin C ester and CoQ10 to make this an all-around star in your skincare ritual!
Ingredients: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil *Organic, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil, Argania spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil (Marula) Oil, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil *Organic Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil (Rosehip) Oil, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Hippophae Rhamnoides (Seabuckthorn) Oil *Organic, Ubiquinone, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Squalane
Ingredient listing is simple, and free of essential oils. This oil is particularly fantastic choice for skins sensitive to essential oils. Blended with some nutrient rich carrier oils, and lipid soluble vitamin C (allows better penetration) this oil is uncomplicated in best way possible. It is crucial to shake the bottle before use, the vitamin C settles at the bottom.
I’ve used this oil several ways, mixed with cleanser for extra nourishment, addition to clay or mud mask so my skin doesn’t feel tight or dry post mask, mixed with creams to give it an edge, mixed with foundation to add some bloody glow, or the obvious way standalone use to thoroughly moisturize skin. The beauty of oils is it can be as versatile and flexible as you’d like them to be.
Overall, the products perform exactly as it claims, ingredient listing that don’t muck around, basic packaging (for serum and oil), doesn’t burn a hole in your pocket, and perfect for all skin types. The reliability factor for this skincare line is when I can’t be bothered, inebriated, sick and feel like a corpse. Personally I have a wandering soul with commitment issues, my heart desires unusual fancy skinventions, so I often try a lot of skincare from various parts of the world. When I experience a flare up from some other product and want my skin back, I go back to Jordan. Of course it is very versatile in its use and complements all other brands and products. Seamlessly blends in other products and still performs just as claimed. The whole range is effortless but doesn’t cut corners. The claims or results are not groundbreaking, they’re as basic and reliable as they get. Ultimately we all want clean skin, hydrated skin and nourished skin. This is exactly what these products do.
HHW.com
xx

Colleen Rothschild Mandelic Acid Radiance Serum

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Colleen Rothschild’s products are no secret to anyone. Over this past summer, she released a gorgeous new Mandelic Acid Radiance Serum. I’ve spoken about Mandelic Acid before (click here) which is derived from Bitter Almonds and helps with age spots and discoloration. Lets dive into CR Serum:

Claims: 

The Mandelic Acid Radiance Serum is an intensive daily treatment that promotes cellular turnover to address photo-agingfine lines, acnedark spots and overall skin texture. At the core of the formula is Mandelic acid which is a gentle, yet highly effective Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) derived from the Bitter Almond.

Pollution, Aging, Sun, and Stress take a toll on the skin and its natural ability to generate and shed skin cells. Dead skin cells sit on the surface of the skin causing a dry, lackluster appearance. The new Colleen Rothschild Mandelic Acid Radiance Serum is formulated to gently exfoliate, dissolve, and breakdown the tiny bonds between dead skin cells, revealing healthy glowing skin. Over time, a brighter and more radiant complexion is unveiled.

Gentle enough for use every day :

  • Refine skin texture and tone – Yes
  • Reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles – Cant tell, I don’t have as many lines yet
  • Helps clogged pores and pesky blackheads – Yes
  • Inhibits dark spots and uneven skin tone – Yes Yes

INGREDIENTS (30 ml (1 fl oz) -$75)

Aqua (Water), Mandelic Acid, Lactic Acid, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (derivative of Azelaic acid), Polysorbate 20 (emulsifier), Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate (tripeptide), Ergothioneine (naturally occurring amino acid), Salicylic Acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate(Vitamin C), Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Saccharum O cinarum (Sugarcane) Extract, Garcinia Mangostana (Mangosteen) Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Fruit Extract, Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleracea (Acai) Fruit Extract, Morinda Citrifolia (Noni) Extract, Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Salicornia Herbacae Extract (halophyte plant), Citrus Aurantium Amara (Neroli) Oil, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Extract, Glycerin, PPG-12 SMDI Copolymer, Lecithin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Galactoarabinan, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide

FORMULATED WITHOUT: Parabens, Sulfates, Phthalates, Synthetic fragrances or colorants

The wonderful thing about this inci list is all actives are listed before preservatives. To summarise, the list above is enriched with AHA’s like Mandelic, Lactic, Salicylic acids and derivative of Azelaic Acid. Includes Tripeptides, Vitamin C, antioxidants like Green Tea, fruit extracts of Apple, Sugarcane, Mangosteen, Pomegranate, Goji, Acai, Noni, Coffee, Orange, Lemon and fragranced with essential oil of Neroli.

In terms of consistency and texture, it is a clear slightly runny gel like liquid. The smell is wonderful of Neroli essential oil. Absorbs instantly in the skin. I take couple of pumps all over my face and neck. Generally layer it with some light hydrating serum. Due to the number of acids and essential oil actives, I find it does dry my skin if not nourished properly. To layer products on top is a complete dream, no rolling, no piling, just glides and absorbs smoothly in the skin.

Next morning, my skin has been smooth, even toned and textured and radiant. I absolutely adore how my skin looks and feels following morning. The makeup glides on beautifully and leaves a flawless finish. Although in saying so, I limit use of this gem to 2-3 times a week solely because it can be drying for my skin. The oilier skins would adore this serum, but my skin is temperamental in Chicago winter and has its dry moments. Over the course of summer, I used more frequently to address any sun damage and continue with radiance boosting products.

I highly recommend looking into Mandelic acid as an ingredient in your skincare routines. In this product, having Mandelic with other AHA’s, peptides, and anti oxidants gives it that extra boost. Do you have any other recommendations for products centered around Mandelic Acid?

HHW.com

xx

Winter Skincare Wardrobe

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As the colours change, and temperatures drop, the state of skin is temperamental, agitated and protesting the change. Over the years, I’ve come to a solid conclusion my skin has a mind of its own and I need to adapt it’s care needs accordingly.

With fluctuating environments of strong wind chills, to artificially heated offices, cars and homes my skin is almost in an eternally dehydrated and confused state. Whilst it’s predominantly combination skin, with an oily T-zone and drier cheeks, during winter the ‘combination situation’ is exasperated. In addition, let’s not forget to complicate matters worse with a bout of dehydration and breakouts. Now that the problem is sufficiently moaned about, here’s how I adapt my skincare regime.

Aim of the game is similar to Asian beauty routines, where a number of thin layers of hydration and nourishment products are slapped on. With this method, the skin remains hydrated and nourished for longer.

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Cleansers typically I use oils or balms to remove makeup and second cleanse. Well that wouldn’t change for the evenings. However my morning cleanses, will include a lot more nourishing cream cleansers. Some of my faves in this category are, MV Organic Gentle Cream Cleanser, Trilogy Cream Cleanser and, and Good Things Manuka Cleanser.

Some mornings where I could get away without cream cleanser, I resort to milk cleansers and a strong fave has always been Institut Esthederm Osmoclean or Bioderma cleansing milks. New on the block is Forest Essentials Deeply Nourishing Cleansing Paste with ground paste of almonds, pistachios, and other lush Ayurvedic ingredients which provide skin gentle exfoliation and nourishment in one step. Smells Delish too!

Acid or other forms of exfoliation is driven strictly by my skin need, of how strong of an acid I use and which specific type of acid I use.  

Combination of various Acids: Dr Dennis Gross peels (of varying strengths), Biologique Recherché P50 range, MD Sun Skin Exfoliation Pads, Peter Thomas Roth Unwrinkle Peel Pads, M61 Power Peel, Neogen Wine Peeling Gauze

Glycolic Acid: Alpha H Liquid Gold, Bravura London Calendula Toner, Pixi Glow Tonic, Cane & Austin Miracle+ Pads, Avon Anew Clinical Advanced Retexurising Peel

Lactic Acid: Kate Somerville Clinic to go,  Skyn Iceland Nordic Skin Peel

Milk Peels (the new thing!) – Primary Raw or Dr Jart+ milk peels are gentler on skin OR Pre Lab Toning Peeling tap which is essentially exfoliating with enzymes.

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“Toning Mist & Amp up with Essences” A regular toning spritz post acid to stabilize the pH level in skin. Some examples could be basic floral hydrosols such as Rose Water by MV Organic, Alteya Organic, Santa Maria Novella, Whamisa Damask Rose, Andalou Naturals, Forest Essentials, Kama Ayurveda, Just Herbs etc. Or Zinc based like La Roche Posay Serozinc. Other toners with a combination of ingredients to hydrate and provide other benefits to skin could include Farmacy Skindew, Patyka Revitalizing Toner, Sjal Mineral Kalla toner, Antipodes, Aesop or Trilogy toners.

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These toning mists are then followed by serious hydrating or fermented essences to inject and plump the skin. My absolute fave is Whamisa Organic Flowers Deep Rich Toner, and from same brand Refresh and Original are just as wonderful. To name a few others: Decleor HydraFloral Essence Lotion, Blithe Vital Treatment Essences, Earth’s Recipe Energy Boosting Toner, Missha Time Revolution The First Essence Mist, Bio Essence 24 Gold Water, Shiseido Ibuki essence, Rohto Hadalabo Shirojyun or Gokujun.

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Masks including Sheet Masks Lots of hydration and moisturizing masks, good ol’ sheet masks are fabulous in this category. In saying so, I also throw in one detoxifying or purifying mask, least once a week. I tend to incorporate this everyday if not every second day. Masks are the best way to turbo boost and treat the skin.

Serums or Ampoules are used as usual to specifically target the problem of the day/week/month/season. I have a whole separate post on Guide to Serums for all conditions and skins.

Moisturisers and Oils are the cornerstone of protecting skin’s barrier and thoroughly nurturing it with lovely oils and ingredients. Some wonders which have stood the test of time with me are; Decleor HydraFloral, Mahogany Naturals Manuka Honey Cream, Whamisa Fermented Water Cream and Nourishing Cream, Bravura London Azulene Cream, Pistache Skincare Hydrating Moisturiser, Missha Misa Geum Sul Emulsion, Yuri Pibu Asiatica, Trilogy Rosapene Night Cream.

Here’s a tip if you don’t want to invest in a separate night cream however are quite content with your  regular moisturiser, just add few drops of oil to your day cream and use in your night routine.

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Balms have a special place in my heart and stash! I view them as amplified  version of oils, and of course more lush experience as well. Strong fave continues to be Mahalo Rare Indigo Balm, followed by Mahogany Naturals Blue Lover, May Lindstrom The Blue Cocoon, Mahalo Balm, Darphin Purifying balm, Decleor Rose d’Orient balm. In terms of lip balm, there was one and always be the one, Nuxe Reve de Miel. The rich beeswax coats the lips and leaves it matte. In saying so, I have a separate post on Lip Balms which explores other lip products too.

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Since I complete my evening skincare routine by 5pm, I Re-balm or Re-Oil my skin one more time before bed. Or mist SKII Overnight Essence, which is moisturizing to skin but also leaves a tingly refreshed feel on the skin. Other categories to nourish much drier skins also includes Overnight Masks which can be argued is a richer version of a night cream.

How do you plan to amp up your skincare routine for the winter?

HHW.com

xx

Night Repair Serums

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Today I have lined up a comparison of three very popular “Night Repair Serums”

Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair II (ANR), Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Ampoule, and Manyo Factory Bifida Ferment Complex. 

All three at various price points and thankfully the alternatives are inexpensive. This post will compare the products on basis of their claims, ingredients, texture, consistency, scent, packaging, price, and overall results and opinion.

In terms of Claims, the underlying commonality in their purpose is exactly the same, possibly with couple of other additional claims, anti aging addressing wrinkles, fine lines, elasticity. In addition, restore and rebuild skin’s elasticity and inject deep moisture.

Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair claims “reveal a smoother, more radiant, younger look. Wake up to more beautiful skin every day. Tested and proven: Advanced Night Repair dramatically reduces the look of all key signs of aging. It maximizes the power of skin’s natural nighttime renewal with our exclusive ChronoluxCB™ Technology“.

Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Science Activator Ampoule claims “the complete science behind beautiful skin. Use the essential Activator Ampoule daily in your nighttime routine to get smooth and firm, beautiful skin. It provides your skin with extra nutrients and moisture lacking from your basic skincare. The Ampoule energizes, repairs, and restores elasticity. It also provides wrinkle repairing and whitening benefits“.

Manyo Factory Bifida Ferment Complex claims “this is a multifunctional and highly concentrated ampoule that delivers intensive care to the skin with its special ingredients. Bifida Ferment Complex, its key component, helps rebuild and restore damaged skin cells to make the skin stronger and less prone to damage. It also provides deep moisture to keep the skin moist and radiant. This is also a great solution for aging skin as it is also formulated to improve skin elasticity, therefore gradually eliminating sagging skin, wrinkles and fine lines”.

Next up analyzing the ingredients, possibly the boring section for some but this is where you can see if you’re getting bang for your buck. Couple of notes on inci lists below, ingredients highlighted in bold indicates good stuff, red font indicates ingredient similarity between Estee Lauder ANR and Missha Time Revolution serums and finally blue font indicates similarity between Estee Lauder ANR and Manyo Factory serum.

Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Ingredients: Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Methyl Gluceth-20, PEG-75, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Cola Acuminata (Kola) Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Algin, Pantethine, Caffeine, Lectithin, Tripeptide-32, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium RNA, Bisabolol, Glycereth-26, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Lactobacillus Ferment, Oleth-3, Oleth-5, Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile), Yeast Extract, Choleth-24, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceteth-24, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Hexylene Glycol, Carbonmer, Triethanolamine, Trisodium EDTA, BHT, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Red 4, Yellow 5.

Time Revolution Night Repair Science Activator AmpouleMissha Time Revolution Night Repair Science Activator Ampoule Ingredients: Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glycereth-26, Juniperus Chinensis Xylem Extract, Sorbus Commixta Extract, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Betaine, Chamomilla Recutita (German Chamomile) Flower Extract, Disodium EDTA, Silica, Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Ceteth-3, Ceteth-5, PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Sea Water, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Chamomile Flower Extract, Ethyl Hexanediol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Polysorbate 20. Cyclomethicone, Grifola Frondosa (Maitake) Mycelium Ferment Filtrate Extract, Ophioglossum Vulgatum Extract, Carbomer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Triethanolamine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharomyces/Viscum Album (Mistletoe) Ferment Extract, Yeast Ferment Extract, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Acacia Arabica Stem Bark Extract, Adenosine, Dimethiconol, Xanthan Gum, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Octyldodecanol, Cyclomethicone, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Dextrin, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Manilkara Multinervis Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Pogostemon Cablin Oil, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolymer, Macadamia Seed Oil, Propylene Glycol, Retinol, Cholesterol, Beta-Sitosterol, Lecithin, Panthenol, Cucumis Melo (Melon) Fruit Extract, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Ceteth-24, Choleth-24, Glyceryl Arachidonate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Glyceryl Linolenate, Ubiquinone, Cetyl Phosphate, Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterol, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Biotin

 

Manyo Factory Bifida Ferment Complex Ingredients: Bifida Ferment Lysate, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Copper Tripeptide-1, Aureobasidium Pullulans Ferment, Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Pulsatilla Koreana Extract, Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Glycerin, Physalis Alkekengi Fruit Extract, Caffeine, Hydrolyzed Algin, Red Ginseng Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine, Methyl Gluceth-20, Epigallocatechin Gallate.

Round up on ingredients: yes yes yes Missha list is incredibly long with a dash of vitamin c, peptides, retinol, fermented ingredients, silicones, and number of preservatives. Come along to Estee Lauder ANR contains 40 ingredients with an extra addition of colours too (although its colorless serum). Finally Manyo Factory appears too good to be true, and here I will bring up an interesting point. The ingredient disclosure requirement between Korea and USA are very different. I would highly highly highly recommend reading Fabserviced-B post on Korean vs. US Cosmetic ingredient list order differences. Please go ahead and read Tracy’s blog, especially if you’re a keen Korean beauty addict.

Next up Texture, Consistency and Scent of these serums:

Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair is a viscous consistency and absorbs seamlessly in skin. Easy to dispense with the dropper provided. Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Science Activator Ampoule is light peachy brown colour runny gel which absorbs just as beautifully as ANR. In terms of smell, ANR and Missha smell similar however Missha is slightly milder. It is difficult to describe their scent without making it sound gross when in reality it’s quite pleasant. If I tried, I’d say, fermented citrus smell but not pungent at all.

And lastly, Manyo Factory Bifida Ferment Complex is extremely runny, border line like water but slightly denser than water liquid which feels marginally silicony (but don’t see it on inci lists). It is colorless and completely odorless.

Packaging, Pricing & Availability 

Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair II (50ml – $92) packaged in a dark brown (see through) plastic bottle with dropper, available in three sizes. Easily available at Sephora, and department stores in USA. For rest of world, it is easily available online. The Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Ampoule (50ml – $49) packaged in an opaque bottle where the 40ml bottle comes with a pump whilst 50ml is packaged with a dropper. In USA it is available directly from Missha US website, Bed Bath & Beyond, Target, Urban Outfitters. Finally the Manyo Factory Bifida Ferment Complex (50ml – $16 – $32)  packaged in a dark brown glass bottle with dropper, identical shape, structure and sizing to Estee Lauder ANR bottle. This serum is available in USA through Memebox website.

Overall Results and Opinions

Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair II, I’ve always referred to this as ‘good skin in a bottle’. Next morning my skin is guaranteed to look calm, smooth, and basically ‘normal’ (such a relative term). Skin is surely plump, hydrated and bouncy. As for lines and wrinkles like I’ve said before, I’m not the right candidate to assess that. Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Ampoule is very similar to ANR in results and experience BUT….and yes there is a BUT, it particularly helps inflamed skin. All in all, I think Missha is wonderful inexpensive dupe for ANR. It doesn’t compromise on ingredients, packaging, efficacy and bang for your buck! 

On the other hand Manyo Factory Bifida Ferment Complex is serious hydration and plumpness. Lets say its a notch higher than ANR. Although with respect to its texture and feel, I’m not crazy about it. I tend to use it after an acid tone and then follow by denser consistency serum. Results are undeniably lovely, but the confused oily/silicony texture throws me a little. Sometimes mixing it with ANR or Missha also delivers wonderful results but no one needs to buy it separately solely for that purpose. ANR and Missha stand alone are quite capable of pulling their weight.

Have you tried either of these serums, what are your thoughts?

HHW.com

xx