Mandelic Acid

Colleen Rothschild Mandelic Acid Radiance Serum

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Colleen Rothschild’s products are no secret to anyone. Over this past summer, she released a gorgeous new Mandelic Acid Radiance Serum. I’ve spoken about Mandelic Acid before (click here) which is derived from Bitter Almonds and helps with age spots and discoloration. Lets dive into CR Serum:

Claims: 

The Mandelic Acid Radiance Serum is an intensive daily treatment that promotes cellular turnover to address photo-agingfine lines, acnedark spots and overall skin texture. At the core of the formula is Mandelic acid which is a gentle, yet highly effective Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) derived from the Bitter Almond.

Pollution, Aging, Sun, and Stress take a toll on the skin and its natural ability to generate and shed skin cells. Dead skin cells sit on the surface of the skin causing a dry, lackluster appearance. The new Colleen Rothschild Mandelic Acid Radiance Serum is formulated to gently exfoliate, dissolve, and breakdown the tiny bonds between dead skin cells, revealing healthy glowing skin. Over time, a brighter and more radiant complexion is unveiled.

Gentle enough for use every day :

  • Refine skin texture and tone – Yes
  • Reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles – Cant tell, I don’t have as many lines yet
  • Helps clogged pores and pesky blackheads – Yes
  • Inhibits dark spots and uneven skin tone – Yes Yes

INGREDIENTS (30 ml (1 fl oz) -$75)

Aqua (Water), Mandelic Acid, Lactic Acid, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (derivative of Azelaic acid), Polysorbate 20 (emulsifier), Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate (tripeptide), Ergothioneine (naturally occurring amino acid), Salicylic Acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate(Vitamin C), Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Saccharum O cinarum (Sugarcane) Extract, Garcinia Mangostana (Mangosteen) Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Fruit Extract, Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleracea (Acai) Fruit Extract, Morinda Citrifolia (Noni) Extract, Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Salicornia Herbacae Extract (halophyte plant), Citrus Aurantium Amara (Neroli) Oil, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Extract, Glycerin, PPG-12 SMDI Copolymer, Lecithin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Galactoarabinan, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide

FORMULATED WITHOUT: Parabens, Sulfates, Phthalates, Synthetic fragrances or colorants

The wonderful thing about this inci list is all actives are listed before preservatives. To summarise, the list above is enriched with AHA’s like Mandelic, Lactic, Salicylic acids and derivative of Azelaic Acid. Includes Tripeptides, Vitamin C, antioxidants like Green Tea, fruit extracts of Apple, Sugarcane, Mangosteen, Pomegranate, Goji, Acai, Noni, Coffee, Orange, Lemon and fragranced with essential oil of Neroli.

In terms of consistency and texture, it is a clear slightly runny gel like liquid. The smell is wonderful of Neroli essential oil. Absorbs instantly in the skin. I take couple of pumps all over my face and neck. Generally layer it with some light hydrating serum. Due to the number of acids and essential oil actives, I find it does dry my skin if not nourished properly. To layer products on top is a complete dream, no rolling, no piling, just glides and absorbs smoothly in the skin.

Next morning, my skin has been smooth, even toned and textured and radiant. I absolutely adore how my skin looks and feels following morning. The makeup glides on beautifully and leaves a flawless finish. Although in saying so, I limit use of this gem to 2-3 times a week solely because it can be drying for my skin. The oilier skins would adore this serum, but my skin is temperamental in Chicago winter and has its dry moments. Over the course of summer, I used more frequently to address any sun damage and continue with radiance boosting products.

I highly recommend looking into Mandelic acid as an ingredient in your skincare routines. In this product, having Mandelic with other AHA’s, peptides, and anti oxidants gives it that extra boost. Do you have any other recommendations for products centered around Mandelic Acid?

HHW.com

xx

Acids 101: AHA, BHA, PHA

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We’ve all heard catch phrases and marketing spills from various brands that echo in our heads something along these lines, “using AHA, BHA …. product will give your skin glow from sun……………… blah blah blah!”

This post is intended to provide you further information on source of these acids, their purpose in life, how it would benefit the skin and some product suggestions.

ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (AHA’s)

Operation Mode

AHA’s are water soluble which basically means it reacts with upper layer of epidermis and dissolves all dead skin cells on surface of skin. AHA’s operate at pH level of 3 – 5 (it’s the level of acidity, when compared to water at pH level 7 which is neutral).

Suitable Candidate or Skin Concerns

People experiencing sun damaged skin, aging, pigmentation, brown spots, wrinkles, rosacea, acne spots, congested skin.

Where should it be on the Ingredient list?

Products containing higher concentration of AHA’s would usually be listed 2nd – 3rd – 4th – 5th in the ingredient list (but these do not necessarily interpret effective result it may mean faster results).

Which acid is most effective? Which acid penetrates deepest in layers of skin?

It simply depends on the relevant acid’s Molecular size….Not all of the acids work in same way. Smaller molecules penetrate deeper in the skin for best results. But they are also the ones that give the skin tingling sensation or irritate very sensitive skins.

The following acids are in the order from . The following table shows the types of AHA’s, in the order of Smallest (deepest penetration in skin) to Largest molecule (more skin surface exfoliation), Source they are derived from, their Purpose in life and Product suggestions:

Type Source Derived from Function

Product Suggestions

Glycolic Acid

(Smallest Molecule)

Sugar Cane Degreasing and controlling production of sebum, and stimulate collagen production in skin. Alpha Hydrox range (12-14% Glycolic Acid)

Peter Roth Thomas Glycolic Range

Kate Somerville Glycolic & Retinol Peel

Alpha H Liquid Gold Range

Bravura London Glycolic Peel (10%) & Moisturizer (15%)

Lactic Acid Milk, Yoghurt, Sour Butter Milk or fermented fruit Antimicrobial, hydrating and adjusts ph level, skin softener, keeps skin moist Priori Gentle Facial Cleanser (13% Lactic Acid Complex)

Bravura London Lactic Acid Peel

Dermalogica Gentle Cream Exfoliant

Sunday Riley Good Genes

Malic Acid Apples, Cherry, Pears Hydrating, soothing and increases tissue respiration, increases oxygen supply to skin Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Peel Packs

Juice Beauty Green Apple Peel

Tracie Martyn Amla Purifying Cleanser & Enzyme Exfoliant

Tartaric Acid Grapes, Berries, Currants, Passionfruit, Red Wine Antioxidant Arcona Raspberry Resurfacing Mask
Citric Acid Tomatoes, Oranges, Lemons (citrus fruits) Brightens skin, anti aging properties Mario Badescu Orange Tonic Mask

Ole Henriksen Truth Collagen Serum

Mandelic Acid Bitter Almonds Helps age spots, discoloration

Vivant Skincare Mandelic Serum

Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic + Retinol Brightening Solution

BETA HYDROXY ACID (BHA)

Operation Mode

BHA’s are lipid (oil) soluble, which basically means it can break down the oils on surface of skin and penetrate deeper in layers of skin. Due to the ability of BHA’s going deeper in skin, they aid in acting against sebum congestion under the skin’s surface. They have anti-inflammatory properties too. Like AHA’s, these operate at pH level of 3 – 5. BHA products may result in dryness and dehydration to the skin.

Suitable Candidate or Skin Concerns

BHA products are suitable for congested skin, blackheads, whiteheads, acne, wrinkles, and ingrown hair.

Where should it be on the Ingredient list?

Unlike AHA products, the products containing Salicylic acid would usually be listed towards end of the ingredient listing. BHA is far stronger and therefore effective on skin.

Type Source Derived from Function Product Suggestions

Salicylic Acid

(Molecule smaller than Glycolic Acid)

Salicylic Acid derived from White Willow Bark. Aspirin is also derived from White Willow Bark and its active ingredient is Salicylic acid. You may have heard Aspirin masks for acne prone skin. Unclog pores, helps with underlying congestion, ingrown hair.

NO impact on sebum production or killing bacteria.

Bravura London Salicylic Acid Peel 2%

La Roche Posay Effaclar Duo (French Version)

Skinceuticals LHA Solution (also has Lipo Hydroxy and Glycolic Acids)

Dr Dennis Gross Purifying Booster

Perfect Image Skincare – TCA (Trichloroacetic Acid) 15% Gel Peel Enhanced with Salicylic Acid

Body scrubs that contain Salicylic acid are brilliant for ingrown hair

Categories/Types of products that contain AHA’s and BHA’s

Cleanser, Toners, Exfoliators, Eye Creams, Serums, Moisturizers, Chemical Peels. Below I have summarized some of the products that contain AHA, BHA, or a combination of two. 

AHA & BHA General Knowledge

1) Most important thing to bear in mind is AHA and BHA do cause skin sensitivities especially to sun exposure. Basically all hard work done with skin care products, can be reversed with unprotected sun exposure or inadequate sun protection.

2)  Skin regeneration is turnover of new skin cells that is critical for healthy, radiant and clear skin. Whilst AHA’s, BHA’s and PHA’s are brilliant for chemical exfoliation which continually “promote” growth of collagen in skin, it should be noted that AHA, BHA, PHA don’t generate new collagen. These are a great prep point for repairing products that have specific ingredients aimed at repair and nourish various skin concerns.

3)  There are number of companies and products that have a combination of AHA and BHA (Salicylic Acid). As for AHA’s you will need to read the ingredient list to ensure which type of acid is included in the product. Some companies also used synthetically sourced AHA and BHA, which is not naturally sourced. Think of it as, Vanilla extract (in a bottle with alcohol) as against using natural vanilla pod! Similarly some companies use AHA concentrate rather than extracts from natural fruit or vegetable. 

POLY HYDROXY ACID (PHA)

For sensitive skins, that are irritated with deep penetration of Glycolic Acid or cannot handle the tingly sensation from AHA’s, the Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHA’s) come to their rescue.

Polyhydroxy acids enhance exfoliation of the outermost layer of the skin and normalize its thickness. Products containing PHA’s cause less irritation to sensitive skin due to their large molecular structures. Considering it has a larger molecular structure it doesn’t penetrate deep in layers of skin, however it has has been proven the efficacy is not impacted in anyway compared to any other AHA.

Generally, the two types of PHA’s available are Gluconolactone (from oxidized glucose – natural sugar found in human body) and Lactobionic acid (from oxidized lactose – milk sugar).

Some product suggestions with PHA’s:

Thanks for taking the time to read the post and hopefully it has answered some of your burning questions.

HHW.com

xx