Rodial

Encyclopedia of Face Masks

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The western skincare scene has usually been limited to clay, mud, charcoal, cream, gel kind of masks. Move to the east and we have a whole new innovative category of masks. Starting with the more traditional sheet masks for various parts like face, hands, feet with different materials to a rather new age innovative Oxygen bubbling, Splashing or Patting, Rubber modeling, Spot treatment, Lip masks!!!! Below I have a list of masks based on various consistencies and textures:

  • Clay, Mud, Charcoal
  • Powder aka Ubtan
  • Cream
  • Gel
  • Sheet – face and eye – cotton, gel, sea weed/kelp, hydrogel, foil back sheet mask
  • Sleep or Overnight – cream, gel or bouncy textures, water pack
  • Peel off mask – Gels
  • Rubber modeling
  • Oxygen Bubbling
  • Splash or Patting
  • Mousse pack – too cool for school eg mousse pack
  • Nose pack – mainly for white and black heads
  • Spot treatment
  • Hand & feet
  • Lip mask

In terms of why we mask, its simple – immediate crash injection of whatever skin needs. Below are some outcomes expected of masks, and the gobbledygook it’s usually marketed with:

  • Repair, Rescue
  • Detoxifying, Decongesting, Purifying, Deep Cleansing, Mattifying, Clarifying, Pore Correction
  • Exfoliating, Resurfacing, Retexturizing
  • Radiance, Brightening, Glow, Luminous
  • Hydration
  • Moisture
  • Firming, Lifting, Shaping
  • Self Tanning Sleep Mask

I’ll talk about my current masks on rotation based on their purpose in life and intended outcome for my skin. Here I have a decent mix of price points and regional availabilities. Of course if all else fails, diving into your kitchen and whipping up one of your own creations is always an option. I have a post on DIY masks you could refer for some ideas and inspiration.

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Charcoal, Clay and Mud Masks

I hate paying ridiculously priced clay, mud or charcoal masks! They are the cheapest ingredients and formulating a mask with them as a base doesn’t cost an entity as much moolah. Large mark up zone, so beware and ensure you read inci list here. Look for life changing ingredient (as if they exist – eye roll) to justify a price tag.

Generally formulated with some soothing, hydrating and moisturizing ingredients. This category of masks can leave the skin dry and parched. This happens because the mask is left on too long. These masks should be left long enough for it to work but not to the point where they are bone dry. By doing so it is drawing moisture from skin. Once you let it dry completely to the point you cannot move your face, you would need a bloody chisel to break through (exceptions: Aesop, SkinFood NZ, Sanctuary Spa). Therefore I prefer slapping these on when I intend to step in the shower. With the steam and clay/mud/charcoal it draws impurities to surface and truly detoxifies the skin. Plus its easier to remove and goes down the drain instead of messing up the sink.

Great for oily, combination, congestion prone skin. Alternatively also good for skin who need a detox. Drier skins need to be slightly careful with masks, add couple of drops of facial oil to avoid any post-mask tightness or dryness.

Quick blurb on all masks pictured above: Dr. Organic Virgin Olive Oil – too drying, hard to work with; Good Things Manuka Honey – purifying yet leaving skin supple; Nip+Fab Kale Fix – seriously softens the skin; Caudalie Purifying – too strong essential oils, not crazy about this one; Shea Moisture Coconut & Hibiscus – smells amazing but results are mediocre; Moreish – another Kiwi fave mask, almost creamy and leaves skin supple; Cattier – limited availability outside France, good basic clay mask; Mahalo Bean (limited edition) – not available anymore but left skin radiant; Andalou Naturals – great drugstore option; Aesop – long time fave, wonderful detoxifier; SkinFooz NZ – the best mask truly, not drying, applies nicely, very mild exfoliating and nourishing; Derma E – exfoliating particles not for sensitive skins; Sanctuary Spa – warming sensation, easy to remove; Colleen Rothschild Detoxifying – minty freshness, leaves skin refreshed and purified.

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Brightening, Radiance, Firming Mask

Texture wise this category varies between gel, cream and whipped mousse. Ingredient base will usually have some form of AHA, or Enzymes to allow the surface exfoliation which results in brightening and radiance. Occasionally some masks include physical exfoliation aspect as well, in this case its M61 Skincare Vitablast C Scrub & Mask. I tend to slap it on, leave it for a while and then gently massage/exfoliate the skin. Given its formulation with Vitamin C it helps brighten the skin. Antipodes Aura Manuka Honey mask is an unusual one in this category, whilst Antipodes claim it to be purifying as honey draws impurities to surface I prefer this mask for subtle glow and brightening my skin. Easy cream application leaves skin soft, supple and glowy.

Blurbs on others: Andalou Naturals Berry Enzyme – again great drugstore alternative without hefty price tag; Forest Essentials Yogurt Purifying – stings skin slightly, smells yummy, whipped yogurt texture and results are meh; Dr Lewinns Reversaderm – sure shot radiance with runny blue lotion like consistency; Natio 10min Brightening – so good, but limited to Australia; Farmacia Barcelona Gold Mask – slightly gimmicky with gold ‘powder’ but decently hydrating; Nip+Fab Bee Sting – nothing firms skin like this fella, taut skin; Chantecaille Fruit and Flower – smells amazing, feels creamy and leaves skin glowy. love.

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Hydration Boosters

Hyaluronic acids, Glycerin, fermented ingredients or masks formulated with serious humectants are all about major hydration. Absolute treats for skin and sensorial experiences include Mahalo Petal – the smell is heavenly, apply and step in shower and the whole bathroom smells divine. Words are not enough to describe the scent. In terms of hydration its a mild everyday use mask. May Lindstrom The Honey Mud classified as cleanser, but No its too lush to go as cleanser hence a sweet spicy honey mask. An inexpensive treat is Super Facialist Una Brennan Rose Hydrating mask and Andalou Naturals 1000 Roses mask.

The beauty of these masks is you can use everyday (if your skin needs it). Leave it on for as long as your heart desires and skin is left hydrated, nourished and smooth.

Serious hydrating masks are – Bioderma Hydrabio (nothing like this fella), Rodial Dragons Blood Hyaluronic Acid (overnight leave on mask), Natio Ageless Vitamin C hydration and The Body Shop Vitamin E Moisture mask.

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Powder masks

The purpose could vary from mere cleansing, exfoliating, detoxifying to enzyme radiance. Recently I wrote about cleansing powders aka ubtans could also be used as masks. Since the ingredients are in dried powder form this one has greater shelf life but can be messy to use. At the same time it gives you the flexibility and allows creativity on the liquids to use for mixing. May Lindstrom’s The Problem Solver is enriched with spices and oils and tends to self heat (due to spices) when applied to the skin. Love this mask for its ability to decongest and purify skin.

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The new concept of splashing or patting unadulterated concentrated ingredients on skin for crash radiance. The methods of application can be as creative as they can get, but what remains consistent is the result on skin. Bright, radiant skin like someone slapped it to life! This product is truly tailored for clumsy individuals like me. Definitely look into this, now available in Sephora too, so you can try a sample.

Click here for my detailed review

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Sheet Masks

These masks are now becoming all the rage in western markets whereas they have dominated the east Asian market for decades. Made with various materials, ingredients these masks pack a punch and truly feed the skin. The beauty of these masks is you can get it for absolutely any skin concern. Sheet masks are also made specifically for neck, hands, feet, eye, and lips.

Personally I love using these after acid tone stage, as my skin drinks up all the essence in these masks, follow with serum or ampoule and finish off with oil or moisturizer. The fits and sizes of these masks can vary for a lot of non Asian faces. In some instances, the forehead is not big enough or nose is tiny, or mask in general is smaller. They are made with Asian faces in mind however the outreach of these masks is phenomenal.

Whilst Korea dominates the sheet masks domain, Asian countries like Japan (HadaLabo, SKII, Shiseido, Harihada, Biore), Taiwan (My Beauty Diary, Naruko, Neogence, Silk Whitia), Singapore (DrGL, BioEssence, RachelK), Hong Kong (Hiruscar,Wai Yeung Tong) are not too far behind and worth giving a try.

These masks are wildly creative with the ingredient formulation too, from oils to fermented ingredients to animal by products (donkey milk, snail mucin, abalone serum), EGF factors, etc. The price points can also range from a $1 to $40 per sheet mask.

The new trend also includes cleansing gel, peeling gel, aqua or milk peel swab (aka acid tones), essence and sheet masks making it a one stop shop for convenience and travel friendly. Reme G, Ettang, Papa Recipe, Somoon, The Saem are some brands which have got on board with this concept.

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Not a huge deviation from above mentioned Sheet Masks, these Eye patches specifically address puffiness, bagginess and brightening eye area. Common ingredients that are often used are caffeine, retinol, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, bamboo water and other fermented ingredients.

On a disgustingly warm day, keeping any sheet mask in fridge for few minutes before application can seriously feel amazing, slapping on cool sheet mask whilst everything around you is boiling and feel like your insides are melting. Amazing for travel, excellent short cut to an elaborate routine without compromising on results.

How innovative and experimentative are you with masks? I’d love to know in comments below is there any category of mask or brand I absolutely must try.

HHW.com

xx

Repurchases & Back Ups

As a part of blogging and micro blogging, I’m fortunate to try new products, however there are some products I’ve continually repurchased and restored the “stash” for an apocalypse. This post may come as no surprise to regulars as they would have seen the products time and again.

The post intends to round up most of the repurchases, backups, trusted products in compromised dire situations (dramatic much!).

THE JOY OF MY LIFE: CLEANSERS

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Emma Hardie Moringa Cleansing Balm – Simple, effective and now synonymous with Must-Have. Gorgeous smelling buttery balm, that melts in an oil and dissolves all war paint. Take it off with steaming cloth and you’re officially at gateway Heaven.

The Body Shop Nutriganics Softening Cleansing Gel – annoyingly discontinued by The Body Shop, so I’ve stocked well considering TBS website is clearing at $7.25! Just as fabulous as Emma Hardie balm at a fraction of a price.

Darphin Aromatic Cleansing Balm – perfect second cleanse or morning cleanse or aromatherapy-esque massage. Slightly waxier in texture but on contact with skin its Lush.

Rodial Glamtox Cleansing Balm – my beloved travel companion. Only brand (until Sarah Chapman) who did cleansing balm in a pump bottle and ticks all the  requisites of good cleansing balm. Detailed review on Rodial balms….click here.

MY REASON TO LIVE – ACIDS

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Alpha H Liquid Gold – my first ever Acid product, loaded with Glycolic acid, operates at pH level of 2.5 and super effective.

Peter Thomas Roth Unwrinkle Peel Pads – claims to be at 20% but operates at higher pH of 5, very gentle on skin and all round worker (not limited to exfoliation) for days when skin needs a pick me up.

Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Peel – Two words. Travel BFF. I’m willing to leave the Man at home on a holiday, but not these acid pads. Conveniently packaged with a punch of acids and genuinely gives you holiday glow!.

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Bravura London Lactic Acid 10% & Salicylic Acid 2% Peel – peel, serum, spot treatment, acid tone, or part of Triple Mask routine (explained here). This is as Versatile as you’d like it to be. Solid, basic, effective acid – must have in an acid arsenal.

My detailed review on these peels….click here.

ESSENCE OF LIFE – TONERS

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La Roche Posay Serozinc – so simple yet so effective. My review on Serozinc can be found here.

Kama Ayurveda Toning Mists (Rose and Mogra) – I wish I had come across this brand sooner.

The steam distilled face toning mists, not only smell divine but also soothe irritated skin. Always keep least one as a back up and one specifically for travel.

SOUL SEARCHERS – SERUMS

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Sunday Riley Good Genes – Unneutralized Lactic Acid at 40% that gives major light bulb glow the following morning. The key with this product is Use Wisely, not abuse it. This will always remain in my stash when I need glow before an event or need to slap my skin to some form of radiance.

Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic+Retinol Brightening Solution – may it be ‘breakout’ville, or post breakout ‘scar’ville, this serum is plain fabulous for addressing scaring, uneven skintone, irritated or inflamed skin. Also used as a spot treatment on that bastard that left a scar.

Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair – all round, good skin in a bottle. Hydrates, plumps, calms, soothes…..literally Good Skin in a Bottle.

Indeed Labs Hydraluron – essential dose of hydration, my skin just binges on this stuff. Instantly see the difference in skin.

A guide to All Serums….Click Here.

FACIAL OILS THAT GIVE ME BLISSFUL FEELS

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The Body Shop Vitamin E Overnight Serum in Oil – Must Have. Calms my angry spotty skin, hydrates, fakes my sleeping pattern. Light texture, immediately absorbs. My detailed review here.

Aesop Fabulous Face Oil – Smells amazing, absorbs instantly, excellent for combo skin. My detailed review here.

Goodness Chia Seed Oil – Cold Pressed Chia Seed Oil (excellent source of fatty acids and omegas), fabulous on its own or mixed with any other oil, mask or cleanser (read, majorly versatile here). Does a fab job with just 2 ingredients : Chia Seed & Meadowfoam Oil.

Kama Ayurveda Kumkumadi Facial Elixir – Decadent oil with incredible ingredients where I only need  a drop or two, can be mixed with Chia Seed Oil and massage in the skin to glory. My detailed review here.

For a snapshot on ALL facial oils used….Click Here.

CANNOT FUNCTION WITHOUT A LIP BALM

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Nuxe-Rêve de Miel this should come as no surprise, I’m almost married to this balm.

Lucas Papaw Ointment – this is my childhood in a tub and tube and it aint going anywhere at all.

Follow my Lip Balm Trail …..Click Here.

DISASTER RECOVERY PRODUCTS – BREAKOUT HELPERS

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Effaclar Duo, K and AI – with the slightest indication that my skin is going to rise in a battle, I will bring the ‘A’ team out to settle matters.

Duo on spots – always with me (travel, purse, home, side table….every where).

K is for overall calmness and Salicylic acid helps sort the situation.

AI is again for spots specifically when I know that bastard will leave me a scar.

LUSH TREATS – MASK

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Antipodes Aura Manuka Honey Mask – honey is such a fabulous ingredient, although I feel its very underrated for what it offers. This mask is such a stellar product, calms, purifies, hydrates, plumps….this time I will call it Good Skin in a Tube.

Aesop Parsley Seed Cleansing Mask – in my opinion, the stand out product of Aesop. Used as spot treatment or an overall cleanse, fabulous. The only clay mask where I don’t need a chisel to break through.

I’d love to know what are your backups and repurchased products? What do you rely on in a major situation or an emergency? Who are your fall backs and trusted souls?

HHW.com

xx

 

 

 

Rodial Cleansing Balms

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Possibly the most used in any skincare routine is a Cleansing Balm. If you follow me on Instagram you may have seen the balm feature in my daily routines, but I’ve rarely ever stopped to properly tell you about it and why I love it so much.

Of course the brand is controversial from its product naming perspective, but lets turn a blind eye on that for a moment and focus on the actual product, ingredients and its performance.

Cleansing Balms – I wouldn’t know how to cleanse without balms and oils! They’re the very cornerstone of proper cleansing or makeup removal for me. One thing that irks me slightly with most balms is their packaging. Usually housed in glass or plastic pots and we need to dip our paws in there to scoop and smear goodness all over our faces.

What I LOVE about these two rockstars here, they are housed in plastic bottle with a pump and no paw dipping business. A pump that actually works (some brands I’ve had issues with pumps). Its one of those pumping mechanisms where it would scooop every last bit out.

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Next is the Texture: lovely lush balms! Whilst Glamtox is slightly more denser balm (right in tray), Bee Venom is slightly runnier in texture (left in tray). In terms of application and schmearability (such technical words ;)) they glide like a dream. Remove makeup efficiently and effectively. No eye stinging either.

Scent wise I couldn’t choose one over the other, Glamtox is slightly more herbalish scent while Bee Venom reminds me of their Superfood cleanser scent. Subtle sweet floral. I know the name Bee Venom and its scent just dont correlate with each other.

Some balms  (e.g. Boots Botanics Balm – click on link for full review) dont emulsify, aka dont turn into milky lushness when mixed with water. However these two, are BFF’s with water, emulsify beautifully and you wouldn’t need a wash/face cloth. Although I always use a wash/face cloth (proper cleansing ritual).  They leave my skin thoroughly cleansed and not dry or stripped. My skin feels comfortable after cleansing and ready for next skincare step.

Glamtox Claimshelp to improve the appearance of uneven skintone and hyperpigmentation. Skin will be left looking brighter, nourished by vitamins and collagen production stimulated for firmer, plumper looking skin.

Bee Venom ClaimsWonder ingredient bee venom (listed third last ingredient) works to plump fine lines and wrinkles and firms the skin ……………. improve the appearance of uneven skin tone. 

Big claims, but the balms are on the skin for such a short while, I dont think they stand true to such claims.

On the flip side, I’ve used both of them as Hydrating Masks (left on skin while I clean the entire house) and my skin appears well hydrated and plump. Although nothing happened to my acne scars or pigmentation.

Glamtox Ingredients: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Glycerin, PEG-8 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Glyceryl Dibehenate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil, Polyglyceryl-3-Diisostearate, Tribehenin, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Polysorbate 20, Glyceryl Behenate, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Salycilic Acid, Parfum (Fragrance), Limonene, Linalool, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Palmytoylproline, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Extract, Nymphaea Alba (Water Lily) Flower Extract, Butylene Glycol, Tocopherol

Bee Venom Ingredients: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond ) Oil, Glycerin, Glyceryl Behenate, PEG-8 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Polysorbate 20, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Dipropylene Glycol, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Limonene, Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Nymphaea Alba (Water Lily) Flower Extract, Tocopherol, Linalool, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Fruit Extract, Geraniol, Farnesol, Citral, Bee Venom, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate.
Cautions: Do not use if you have an allergy to bee stings. A patch test prior to use is recommended. If signs of irritation occur discontinue use immediately.

Have you used Rodial cleansing balms? Did you have a similar experience to mine?

HHW.com

xx

The Cleansing Backups

I think we’ve all been there, when we fall in a love with some product and it becomes an indispensable part of our regime. Our innate first world fear sets in, and we purchase multiples of the product like the apocalypse is going to hit tomorrow. So here are my back ups for a rainy day:P1010083

Bioderma Micellar Water – this has been raved and ranted on endlessly in blogsphere and modeling world. No other micellar water has come close to this, or is as gentle as this one.

Rodial Glamtox Cleansing Balm – Bloody love this balm. It’s a thick textured balm which I massage onto dry skin and it effectively removes moi makeup!

Rodial Dragons Blood Cleansing Water – Good but not as good as Bioderma Micellar Water. I use this one as an aromatherapy treat.

The Body Shop Nutriganics Cleansing Gel – my rave, rant and disappointment on it being discontinued can be found here.

xx

HHW.com

DIY Aromatherapy Facial

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We’ve been to spa’s or heard of various Aromatherapy treatments. One of which is the aromatherapy facial, which got my attention. These facials are known to soothe the skin and relax your mind. With the use of essentials oils based on your skin type, the scents from these lush oils induce relaxation to a stressed mind. Different essential oils are suited to different types of skin such as:

  • Dry Skin- cedarwood, clary sage, geranium, jasmine, lavender, lemon, myrrh, patchouli, roman chamomile, rose, rosewood, sandalwood, ylang ylang
  • Oily Skin- bergamot, clary sage, cypress, frankincense, geranium, helichrsum, lavender, lemon, lemongrass, orange, patchouli, peppermint, roman chamomile, rosemary, sandalwood, tea tree, ylang ylang
  • Normal skin/Combination skin- geranium, chamomile, lavender, orange, ylang ylang petitgrain, palmarosa.
  • Sensitive Skin- geranium, jasmine, lavender, chamomile, neroli
  • Mature Skin- clary sage, cypress, frankincense, geranium, helichyrsum, lavender, lemon, myrrh, orange, patchouli, rosemary, sandalwood, ylang ylang.

While the above list is commercial, I was once advised that take a deep breath and have a good sniff at these oils. Based on that, listen to what your body signals. Your body and mind will react to the scent either in a pleasant way (wanting more) or simply gross you out. This exercise will determine what your skin/body needs. I haven’t looked back since and truly believe in this method. At home aromatherapy facials have shaped up as follows:

Cleansing – Makeup RemovalRodial Dragon’s Blood Cleansing Water to remove my eye makeup and whatever is left on cotton pad I swipe across my lips and rest of face. Then follow with Emma Hardie Moringa Cleansing Balm and gently massage all over my face. Once the balm is all over my palms, I cup them and inhale deep breath. Wipe with warm wash cloth.

Cleansing – Skin Nourishment – Followed with Rodial Stem Cell Super Food Cleanser and again massage away to glory. Dip my hands in ice cold water and shock my skin with varying temperatures. Now I don’t know if this would be recommended however I know I thoroughly enjoy it.

Steaming – Next step of temperature shock is boil a pot of hot water, add a few drops of essential oil, hold a towel over my head and let my skin steam away. In an ideal spa environment, this stage will be followed by extractions but I’m a chicken when I do it over myself.

Exfoliating – Instead of extractions, I use grated almond shell (nourishes and gently exfoliates) with orange rind (vitamin c) mixed with whole cream milk (lactic acid) and gently massage all over my face. Wash it off with regular tap water.

Alternatively I use PMD after steaming. Will post a separate review on that.

Mask – Back to wonderful smells and injecting hydration in skin I smear Una Brennan Rose Hydrating Mask all over and let it sit for 15-25minutes. If I fall asleep I guess I stop there if not…here’s how I continue

Toner – Spritz Pixi Glow Tonic, very refreshing and smells wonderful

Moisturizer – Followed with Dr Scheller Lavender Night Moisturizer, since it has water content skin will absorb immediately and then follow with

Facial Oil – Estelle & Thild Oil – Rose scented goodness!

Understandably,  to some this could be sensory overload or a simple assault on senses but to me this is perfection!

xx

HHW.com