serum

Winter Skincare Wardrobe

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As the colours change, and temperatures drop, the state of skin is temperamental, agitated and protesting the change. Over the years, I’ve come to a solid conclusion my skin has a mind of its own and I need to adapt it’s care needs accordingly.

With fluctuating environments of strong wind chills, to artificially heated offices, cars and homes my skin is almost in an eternally dehydrated and confused state. Whilst it’s predominantly combination skin, with an oily T-zone and drier cheeks, during winter the ‘combination situation’ is exasperated. In addition, let’s not forget to complicate matters worse with a bout of dehydration and breakouts. Now that the problem is sufficiently moaned about, here’s how I adapt my skincare regime.

Aim of the game is similar to Asian beauty routines, where a number of thin layers of hydration and nourishment products are slapped on. With this method, the skin remains hydrated and nourished for longer.

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Cleansers typically I use oils or balms to remove makeup and second cleanse. Well that wouldn’t change for the evenings. However my morning cleanses, will include a lot more nourishing cream cleansers. Some of my faves in this category are, MV Organic Gentle Cream Cleanser, Trilogy Cream Cleanser and, and Good Things Manuka Cleanser.

Some mornings where I could get away without cream cleanser, I resort to milk cleansers and a strong fave has always been Institut Esthederm Osmoclean or Bioderma cleansing milks. New on the block is Forest Essentials Deeply Nourishing Cleansing Paste with ground paste of almonds, pistachios, and other lush Ayurvedic ingredients which provide skin gentle exfoliation and nourishment in one step. Smells Delish too!

Acid or other forms of exfoliation is driven strictly by my skin need, of how strong of an acid I use and which specific type of acid I use.  

Combination of various Acids: Dr Dennis Gross peels (of varying strengths), Biologique Recherché P50 range, MD Sun Skin Exfoliation Pads, Peter Thomas Roth Unwrinkle Peel Pads, M61 Power Peel, Neogen Wine Peeling Gauze

Glycolic Acid: Alpha H Liquid Gold, Bravura London Calendula Toner, Pixi Glow Tonic, Cane & Austin Miracle+ Pads, Avon Anew Clinical Advanced Retexurising Peel

Lactic Acid: Kate Somerville Clinic to go,  Skyn Iceland Nordic Skin Peel

Milk Peels (the new thing!) – Primary Raw or Dr Jart+ milk peels are gentler on skin OR Pre Lab Toning Peeling tap which is essentially exfoliating with enzymes.

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“Toning Mist & Amp up with Essences” A regular toning spritz post acid to stabilize the pH level in skin. Some examples could be basic floral hydrosols such as Rose Water by MV Organic, Alteya Organic, Santa Maria Novella, Whamisa Damask Rose, Andalou Naturals, Forest Essentials, Kama Ayurveda, Just Herbs etc. Or Zinc based like La Roche Posay Serozinc. Other toners with a combination of ingredients to hydrate and provide other benefits to skin could include Farmacy Skindew, Patyka Revitalizing Toner, Sjal Mineral Kalla toner, Antipodes, Aesop or Trilogy toners.

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These toning mists are then followed by serious hydrating or fermented essences to inject and plump the skin. My absolute fave is Whamisa Organic Flowers Deep Rich Toner, and from same brand Refresh and Original are just as wonderful. To name a few others: Decleor HydraFloral Essence Lotion, Blithe Vital Treatment Essences, Earth’s Recipe Energy Boosting Toner, Missha Time Revolution The First Essence Mist, Bio Essence 24 Gold Water, Shiseido Ibuki essence, Rohto Hadalabo Shirojyun or Gokujun.

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Masks including Sheet Masks Lots of hydration and moisturizing masks, good ol’ sheet masks are fabulous in this category. In saying so, I also throw in one detoxifying or purifying mask, least once a week. I tend to incorporate this everyday if not every second day. Masks are the best way to turbo boost and treat the skin.

Serums or Ampoules are used as usual to specifically target the problem of the day/week/month/season. I have a whole separate post on Guide to Serums for all conditions and skins.

Moisturisers and Oils are the cornerstone of protecting skin’s barrier and thoroughly nurturing it with lovely oils and ingredients. Some wonders which have stood the test of time with me are; Decleor HydraFloral, Mahogany Naturals Manuka Honey Cream, Whamisa Fermented Water Cream and Nourishing Cream, Bravura London Azulene Cream, Pistache Skincare Hydrating Moisturiser, Missha Misa Geum Sul Emulsion, Yuri Pibu Asiatica, Trilogy Rosapene Night Cream.

Here’s a tip if you don’t want to invest in a separate night cream however are quite content with your  regular moisturiser, just add few drops of oil to your day cream and use in your night routine.

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Balms have a special place in my heart and stash! I view them as amplified  version of oils, and of course more lush experience as well. Strong fave continues to be Mahalo Rare Indigo Balm, followed by Mahogany Naturals Blue Lover, May Lindstrom The Blue Cocoon, Mahalo Balm, Darphin Purifying balm, Decleor Rose d’Orient balm. In terms of lip balm, there was one and always be the one, Nuxe Reve de Miel. The rich beeswax coats the lips and leaves it matte. In saying so, I have a separate post on Lip Balms which explores other lip products too.

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Since I complete my evening skincare routine by 5pm, I Re-balm or Re-Oil my skin one more time before bed. Or mist SKII Overnight Essence, which is moisturizing to skin but also leaves a tingly refreshed feel on the skin. Other categories to nourish much drier skins also includes Overnight Masks which can be argued is a richer version of a night cream.

How do you plan to amp up your skincare routine for the winter?

HHW.com

xx

Night Repair Serums

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Today I have lined up a comparison of three very popular “Night Repair Serums”

Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair II (ANR), Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Ampoule, and Manyo Factory Bifida Ferment Complex. 

All three at various price points and thankfully the alternatives are inexpensive. This post will compare the products on basis of their claims, ingredients, texture, consistency, scent, packaging, price, and overall results and opinion.

In terms of Claims, the underlying commonality in their purpose is exactly the same, possibly with couple of other additional claims, anti aging addressing wrinkles, fine lines, elasticity. In addition, restore and rebuild skin’s elasticity and inject deep moisture.

Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair claims “reveal a smoother, more radiant, younger look. Wake up to more beautiful skin every day. Tested and proven: Advanced Night Repair dramatically reduces the look of all key signs of aging. It maximizes the power of skin’s natural nighttime renewal with our exclusive ChronoluxCB™ Technology“.

Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Science Activator Ampoule claims “the complete science behind beautiful skin. Use the essential Activator Ampoule daily in your nighttime routine to get smooth and firm, beautiful skin. It provides your skin with extra nutrients and moisture lacking from your basic skincare. The Ampoule energizes, repairs, and restores elasticity. It also provides wrinkle repairing and whitening benefits“.

Manyo Factory Bifida Ferment Complex claims “this is a multifunctional and highly concentrated ampoule that delivers intensive care to the skin with its special ingredients. Bifida Ferment Complex, its key component, helps rebuild and restore damaged skin cells to make the skin stronger and less prone to damage. It also provides deep moisture to keep the skin moist and radiant. This is also a great solution for aging skin as it is also formulated to improve skin elasticity, therefore gradually eliminating sagging skin, wrinkles and fine lines”.

Next up analyzing the ingredients, possibly the boring section for some but this is where you can see if you’re getting bang for your buck. Couple of notes on inci lists below, ingredients highlighted in bold indicates good stuff, red font indicates ingredient similarity between Estee Lauder ANR and Missha Time Revolution serums and finally blue font indicates similarity between Estee Lauder ANR and Manyo Factory serum.

Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Ingredients: Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Methyl Gluceth-20, PEG-75, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Cola Acuminata (Kola) Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Algin, Pantethine, Caffeine, Lectithin, Tripeptide-32, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium RNA, Bisabolol, Glycereth-26, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Lactobacillus Ferment, Oleth-3, Oleth-5, Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile), Yeast Extract, Choleth-24, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceteth-24, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Hexylene Glycol, Carbonmer, Triethanolamine, Trisodium EDTA, BHT, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Red 4, Yellow 5.

Time Revolution Night Repair Science Activator AmpouleMissha Time Revolution Night Repair Science Activator Ampoule Ingredients: Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glycereth-26, Juniperus Chinensis Xylem Extract, Sorbus Commixta Extract, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Betaine, Chamomilla Recutita (German Chamomile) Flower Extract, Disodium EDTA, Silica, Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Ceteth-3, Ceteth-5, PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Sea Water, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Chamomile Flower Extract, Ethyl Hexanediol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Polysorbate 20. Cyclomethicone, Grifola Frondosa (Maitake) Mycelium Ferment Filtrate Extract, Ophioglossum Vulgatum Extract, Carbomer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Triethanolamine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharomyces/Viscum Album (Mistletoe) Ferment Extract, Yeast Ferment Extract, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Acacia Arabica Stem Bark Extract, Adenosine, Dimethiconol, Xanthan Gum, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Octyldodecanol, Cyclomethicone, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Dextrin, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Manilkara Multinervis Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Pogostemon Cablin Oil, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolymer, Macadamia Seed Oil, Propylene Glycol, Retinol, Cholesterol, Beta-Sitosterol, Lecithin, Panthenol, Cucumis Melo (Melon) Fruit Extract, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Ceteth-24, Choleth-24, Glyceryl Arachidonate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Glyceryl Linolenate, Ubiquinone, Cetyl Phosphate, Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterol, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Biotin

 

Manyo Factory Bifida Ferment Complex Ingredients: Bifida Ferment Lysate, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Copper Tripeptide-1, Aureobasidium Pullulans Ferment, Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Pulsatilla Koreana Extract, Usnea Barbata (Lichen) Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Glycerin, Physalis Alkekengi Fruit Extract, Caffeine, Hydrolyzed Algin, Red Ginseng Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine, Methyl Gluceth-20, Epigallocatechin Gallate.

Round up on ingredients: yes yes yes Missha list is incredibly long with a dash of vitamin c, peptides, retinol, fermented ingredients, silicones, and number of preservatives. Come along to Estee Lauder ANR contains 40 ingredients with an extra addition of colours too (although its colorless serum). Finally Manyo Factory appears too good to be true, and here I will bring up an interesting point. The ingredient disclosure requirement between Korea and USA are very different. I would highly highly highly recommend reading Fabserviced-B post on Korean vs. US Cosmetic ingredient list order differences. Please go ahead and read Tracy’s blog, especially if you’re a keen Korean beauty addict.

Next up Texture, Consistency and Scent of these serums:

Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair is a viscous consistency and absorbs seamlessly in skin. Easy to dispense with the dropper provided. Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Science Activator Ampoule is light peachy brown colour runny gel which absorbs just as beautifully as ANR. In terms of smell, ANR and Missha smell similar however Missha is slightly milder. It is difficult to describe their scent without making it sound gross when in reality it’s quite pleasant. If I tried, I’d say, fermented citrus smell but not pungent at all.

And lastly, Manyo Factory Bifida Ferment Complex is extremely runny, border line like water but slightly denser than water liquid which feels marginally silicony (but don’t see it on inci lists). It is colorless and completely odorless.

Packaging, Pricing & Availability 

Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair II (50ml – $92) packaged in a dark brown (see through) plastic bottle with dropper, available in three sizes. Easily available at Sephora, and department stores in USA. For rest of world, it is easily available online. The Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Ampoule (50ml – $49) packaged in an opaque bottle where the 40ml bottle comes with a pump whilst 50ml is packaged with a dropper. In USA it is available directly from Missha US website, Bed Bath & Beyond, Target, Urban Outfitters. Finally the Manyo Factory Bifida Ferment Complex (50ml – $16 – $32)  packaged in a dark brown glass bottle with dropper, identical shape, structure and sizing to Estee Lauder ANR bottle. This serum is available in USA through Memebox website.

Overall Results and Opinions

Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair II, I’ve always referred to this as ‘good skin in a bottle’. Next morning my skin is guaranteed to look calm, smooth, and basically ‘normal’ (such a relative term). Skin is surely plump, hydrated and bouncy. As for lines and wrinkles like I’ve said before, I’m not the right candidate to assess that. Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Ampoule is very similar to ANR in results and experience BUT….and yes there is a BUT, it particularly helps inflamed skin. All in all, I think Missha is wonderful inexpensive dupe for ANR. It doesn’t compromise on ingredients, packaging, efficacy and bang for your buck! 

On the other hand Manyo Factory Bifida Ferment Complex is serious hydration and plumpness. Lets say its a notch higher than ANR. Although with respect to its texture and feel, I’m not crazy about it. I tend to use it after an acid tone and then follow by denser consistency serum. Results are undeniably lovely, but the confused oily/silicony texture throws me a little. Sometimes mixing it with ANR or Missha also delivers wonderful results but no one needs to buy it separately solely for that purpose. ANR and Missha stand alone are quite capable of pulling their weight.

Have you tried either of these serums, what are your thoughts?

HHW.com

xx

Darphin Stimulskin Plus SeruMask

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Yet another luxurious product from Darphin. Somehow they never fail to disappoint me with their product offering. The product was inspired by the technique and technology of Pierre Darphin’s signature Deep Massage. They claim, “The culmination of our Darphin Institute expertise, this ultimate youth-revealing hybrid mask blends the benefits of our iconic serum with the indulgence of a mask. At its heart lies the Stimulskin Plus serum’s reshaping “Push Up” benefits with precious Sea Emerald and other powerful anti-aging marine ingredients. Upon application, skin is wrapped in luxurious comfort. Over time, skin reveals a younger-looking self. Texture is beautified, lines and wrinkles are visibly minimized, firmness is improved, and skin contours appear lifted and redefined.” Lets dive straight into the inci list:

Getting a full list of ingredients for this product has been incredibly challenging. I have included the name the website from where I got this inci list. So assuming this site is accurate, lets break down then list to analyze the goodies (highlighted in bold):

Water/Aqua/eau, Caprylic/Capric, Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed oil, Isostearyl Neopentanoate, Squalane, Peg-100 Stearate, Methyl Gluceth-20, Isopropyl Isostearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate-60, Peg-40 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract (Guggul Gum-resin from Myrrh tree), Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract/Extrait d’Orge, Bambusa Vulgaris (Bamboo) Extract, Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract, Caffeine, Alteromonas Ferment Extract (gram-negative bacteria found in deep areas of seawater), Prunus Amygdallus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Extract, Whey Protein/Lactis Prtein/Proteine du Petit-Lait, Micrococcus Lysate (enclosed in a tiny package of fat (called a liposome) that supposedly helps deliver the enzyme deep into the skin), Algae Extract, Xrithmum Maritimum Extract (Samphire/Sea Fennel Extract), Sigesbeckia Orientalis (St Paul’s Wort) Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Hydrolysed Rice Protein, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake, Hydrolyzed Corallina Officials (algae), Ethylhexylglcyerin, Nylon-12, Carbomer, Acrylamide,/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Propylene Glycol, Dicaprate, Oryzanol, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Tromethamine, Sorbitan Stearate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Hyaluronate , Fragrance (Parfum), Glucosamine HCL (amino sugar), Lecithin, Disodium Edta, Phenoxyethanol, Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI77891).

There are a number of preservatives, emulsifiers in the formulation (as it’s a cream consistency with water in formulation). I would imagine every skin type would benefit from this, however very sensitive skins need to be weary of inclusion of beeswax. Also some skin’s cannot handle Algae and instantly breaks them out, another ingredient to be mindful of. In my case, I don’t have any congestion or sensitivity to report.

To support claims of “texture is beautified, lines and wrinkles are visibly minimized, firmness is improved, and skin contours appear lifted and redefined”, the following ingredients in the formulation help (info from Darphin):

  • Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract (Guggul Gum-resin from Myrrh tree) – known for its anti aging and lifting properties
  • Alteromonas Ferment Extract – Sea Emerald botanical jewel sourced off the Philippine archipelago promotes collagen synthesis to lift and tighten
  • Hydrolyzed Corallina Officials – commonly knows as Pink Coral Seaweed, this algae extract contains high levels of micronutrients and polysaccharides that help restore hydrarion to the skin.
  • Deepsane – Helps to stimulate renewal and improve skin’s overall condition for a more youthful, smoother appearance.
  • Samphire Extract – known as “retinol of the sea” from the coast of Brittany helps to reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles.

Packaged in a typical Darphin jar with white twist open lid. The texture and consistency is of an unsuspecting cream that not only promises the world but actually delivers it.

Now I looked up this application technique video on Youtube, by Darphin Korea, and it is excellent. Couldn’t wait to get my mitts on brush and slap it all over. Applying with the brush does justice to the product, makes it uber relaxing and luxurious. I tried once applying with my finger (scooped some product on back of my hand) but it just didn’t have that instant gratification. Thankfully the brush comes with the product.

Darphin Application techs

Considering this product is marketed as a fusion product of a serum and mask, I like to apply this product after an intensive peel (like Dr Dennis Gross Ferulic+Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Peel) or Treatment (like at home microdermabrasion). It’s a rich luxurious product, why not reap its full benefit and make it as decadent as possible.

 

Upon application my skin immediately felt hydrated and soft. The following morning skin appeared visibly firmer and plumper. I even tried/forced this on Man of the House and for him to tell me next morning, his skin feels firm, I was flabbergasted! This is the same man that cleanses his face in shower.

Have you tried this product? What are your thoughts?

HHW.com

xx

Sarah Chapman Skinesis Overnight Facial

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The Overnight Facial has been the talk of the town for a while now, and been raved and gushed about a zillion times already. I’m about to add my two cents to the blogosphere .

Sarah Chapman claims: The essence of a Skinesis facial in a bottle, this famed multi-award winning skin transforming power potion combines concentrated cosmeceutical actives and exotic essential oils to leave skin plump, dewy and rejuvenated. This night-time elixir recreates the lifting, firming, skin perfecting benefits of a Skinesis facial. Awaken to plump, smooth, rejuvenated skin with a signature Skinesis glow. The facial elixir also claims to firms, boost collagen production, enhance radiance and prolong cell life while you sleep.

overnight facial INCIUnlike many oils on the market, this formulation not only has a blend of oils but also includes Antioxidants (Coenzyme Q10), Vitamins (A, C, and E), Renovage™, Lipobrite®HCA-4, and Dermaxyl™ Oligopeptide. Hence it would be more appropriate to call this a “Serum Oil”.

OK, now you ask what are these Renovage™, Lipobrite®HCA-4, and Dermaxyl™????

Here’s what I’ve found:

Renovage™ is the brand name for trepenone, developed by the French skin care company Sederma. Trepenone is a drug that has been used in Japan to help protect tissues against damage and stress, but there are no published studies regarding its use or efficacy when it comes to skin.

Lipobrite®HCA-4 is a skin brightening system, consisting of hydroxycinnamic acid (HCA) in PEG-4 which ensure its bioavailability to the skin. HCA is a potent anti-oxidant and it was shown to exhibit protective effect on cells and biological tissues. Helps with reducing age spots and hyper pigmentation, enhance skin penetration through carrier and improves texture and tone.

Dermaxyl™ Oligopeptide a patented oligopeptide and ceramide blend, inspires older cells to communicate like younger cells. When cells communicate more fully, repair cells can focus on areas of skin damage caused by aging processes. The result is enhanced firmness, better moisture retention, and visible easing of deep wrinkles. Clinical studies testing 24 female subjects aged 42 to 66 with a once daily application of 2% Dermaxyl™ for 56 days showed up to 36% reduction in visible wrinkle volume while wrinkle depth lessened up to 27%.” Dermaxyl™ for 56 days showed up to 36% reduction in visible wrinkle volume while wrinkle depth lessened up to 27%.

The Carrier oil blend includes Jojoba, Abyssinian, Meadowfoam, Hemp, Melon, Baobab and Hemp seed oils which are all rich in anti-inflammatory omegas and essential fatty acids.

Exotic blend of Essential oils include Jasmine, Frangipani, Rose and Tuberose.

If you want to know difference and understand Carrier and Essential Oils, click here.

Packaging is impeccable. The oil with no pipette….breath of fresh air. Packaged in an air tight bottle with a pump, basically like a serum! This truly wins my heart in terms of packaging.

Texture & Consistency is what you’d expect from an oil. Pale yellow coloured oil, slightly denser than an average oil but absorbs very nicely in skin.

Scent wise I absolutely adore this product. I can instantly get a hit of jasmine on application and it immediately relaxes me. If you aren’t into florals, steer clear. I absolutely dig this oil for its scent. Unapologetically, the scent makes this my repurchase factor.

In terms of Application it’s a no brainer. One pump and press over all over face and neck. The pump dispenses exact amount needed for face and neck. It instantly absorbs in skin (caveat: prior layers of skincare have settled well in skin). Some days, I follow this straight after an acid tone or an exfoliating tone and I can see my skin just laps this up in matter of seconds.

I think absolutely any skin type would love this. Dry, mature, acne prone, congested, oily, combination, dull, lack lustre, dehydrated, and the blessed normal skins.

Skinesis says the RESULTS to be expected:
– Repairs and neutralises daily environmental damage – I don’t know how to assess that effect on skin!
– Lifts, firms and plumps – certainly plumps and firms my skin. Thankfully I’m not at a stage where I need a lift (yet*).
– Boosts collagen production – again not at a stage where I’ve noticed loss of collagen therefore needing a boost.
– Smoothes lines and uneven texture – certainly has helped my skin with uneven texture. Not so much with stubborn (genetic or race originated) pigmentation (which obvs needs proper serums).
– Rejuvenates the skin leaving it radiant, brighter and with a more even skin tone – Yes,  Yes and Yes.
– Refines the look of the skin – Yes, indeed it does.
– Calms stressed, irritated skin – I think most oils (good blend, properly sourced, quality oils) would calm irritated skin, but what makes this missy unique is blend of antioxidants, vitamins and peptides.

Considering it’s a British brand and available from limited sources in USA, I’ve included price sources for both currencies GBP £46.00 or USD $66 (from FeelUnique.com – ships worldwide) or USD $90 (Space NK).

HHW.com

xx

Dr. Dennis Gross Ferulic + Retinol Serums

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Dr Dennis Gross has recently launched a new serum called Ferulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Overnight Serum. I was left perplexed at this launch, considering I’ve already used, repurchased and loved Ferulic Acid + Retinol Brightening Solution. That’s where my quest to decode the formula began (to the best of my ability, neither am I Dr. DG nor am I Chemist!).

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As I decoded the ingredients, claims and performance, it made more sense which serum to use by who and when. Whilst the similarity of names throws you off, they’re really intended for different purposes.

OLD – BRIGHTENING SOLUTION

NEW – OVERNIGHT SERUM

Clinical/Professional Strength Serum Overnight Serum
Sun damage, uneven skin tone, brown spots, scars, overall brightening Appearance of wrinkles, recovers the look of firmness, and retexturizes skin’s appearance
Texture: Colorless Gel Liquid Texture: Light ‘Creamish’ Serum
Packaging: Brown glass bottle with pipette $88 – 30ml Packaging: Brown plastic bottle with pump (big tick from me) $88 – 30ml
Audience: Anyone really with sun damage or uneven skin tone Audience: Possibly someone with signs of aging, although can be used as a preventative measure too
Performance: In my experience of 2 bottles down, I think it is brilliant with overall brightening and dealing with brown spots, and new scars from those bastards we reluctantly welcome each month. Skin appears more refined and even toned. Performance: In my limited experience (3-4 uses), I think it’s more moisturizing on skin and really an all-round serum. I don’t have visible signs of aging yet (yet being an operative word) so wont be able to comment directly on its claims.

Ingredient Summary for both formulations:

All hard hitters, performance oriented ingredients are in the beginning of the list, whilst preservatives towards the end (and that’s how it should be!). Making it quite a desirable formulation.

Formulated with Antioxidants and skin Brighteners like Arbutin, derivative of Azelaic Acid, Licorice.

Of course an addition of our beloved acids too, like Ferulic, Salicylic, Glycolic, and Mandelic.

One Word: Niacinamide (listed as Third Ingredient) aka vitamin B3 and nicotinic acid, niacinamide is a potent cell-communicating ingredient that offers multiple benefits for aging skin. Assuming skin is being protected from sun exposure, niacinamide can improve skin’s elasticity, dramatically enhance its barrier function, help erase discolorations, and revive skin’s healthy tone and texture (Source: Beautypedia).

Acids: Ferulic, Gallic, Linoleic, Linolenic, Mandellic, and Lactic

Water, Ethoxydiglycol (solvent used as thinner), Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (Azelaic Acid Derivative) , Ferulic Acid, Retinol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract, Arbutin (skin brightening)Morus Nigra Fruit Extract, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Salicylic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Hexylresorcinol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Panthenol, Quercetin, Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates (derivative of Vitamin E used for scarring), Ubiquinone (Co EnzymeQ10), Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, PVM/MA Decadiene Crosspolymer, BHT, Urea, Polysorbate 20, Potassium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol. Water, DiCaprylyl Carbonate (plant derived emollient), Niacinamide, Cetyl Alcohol (fatty alcohol aka good alcohol), Propanediol, Isostearyl Alcohol (fatty alcohol aka good alcohol), Jojoba Esters, Retinol, Ferulic Acid, Collagen Amino Acids, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hexylresorcinol, Ellagic Acid (phenol antioxidant), Gallic Acid ( type of phenolic acid, found in gallnuts, sumac, witch hazel, tea leaves, oak bark, and other plants), Silybum Marianum Ethyl Ester, Tocopherol, Phospholipids, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium PCA, Retinyl Palmitate/Carrot Polypeptide, Retinyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglycerin-3, Tricaprylin, Acrylates/Carbamate Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, BHT, Butylene Glycol Cocoate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Xanthan Gum, Ethylcellulose, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Octoxynol-9, Phenoxyethanol.

One thing I’m yet to try is layering these two fellas, Brightening Solution after toning, followed by Overnight Serum.

Hope you found this ‘distinguishing the serums’ post helpful.

HHW.com

xx