Skincareblogger

Kama Ayurveda – Kumkumadi Facial Elixir

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Ayurveda is the science of life and well-being. The oldest documented body of holistic medical knowledge, it is a system of plant oils and herbs originating in India over 6,000 years ago. After centuries of testing, Ayurvedic science has proven effective, alleviating concerns about side effects.

Kama Ayurveda, a skincare brand from India, established on virtues of a holistic life through ancient Ayurvedic Medicine and Science. One of the first products I tried from their extensive range was KumKumadi Beauty Fluid.

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ClaimsA unique 100% Ayurvedic anti-ageing serum that hydrates cleans and illuminates the skin. Miraculous Beauty Fluid is a unique blend of oils and herbs formulated to help skin look young and healthy. In Ayurveda, rare pure saffron is known to help illuminate skin color; extracts of Indian madder and the Banyan tree help smooth fine lines; Vetiver, sandalwood and lotus cool and cleanse while helping to clear blemishes; and liqorice acts as an antiseptic, protects the skin from bacterial and fungal infections and improve skin texture.

Ingredients on Package: Sesasum Indicum Oil, Caprae Lac, Caesalpinia Sappan, Crocus Sativus, Ficus Benghalensis, Glycyrrhiza Glabra, Monochoria Vaginalis, Nelumbo Nucifera, Rubia Cordifolia, Vetiveria Zizanoides, Laciferra Lacca

Ingredients in Plain English: Sesame oil (carrier oil), Goat Milk, Sappan Wood, Saffron Cocus, Indian Banyan Tree, Liquorice, Pickerel Weed, Indian Lotus (Sacred Lotus), Indian Madder, Vetiver, Resin secreted from female Lac Bug on trees

There is certain richness about this oil which can be attributed straight to its unique ingredient list. These ingredients are not seen everyday in a growing market of facial oils. However, if you’ve used Ayurveda oils before this lineup wouldn’t come as a surprise. The lush oil is packaged in a 12ml dark brown glass bottle with a pipette. Admittedly, slightly on the pricier side however in my opinion, it is worth it as a little goes a long way.

 

The aroma may not please everyone, but personally I’m in Love. It has a decent hit of botanical scent, with subtle woody notes wonderfully blended and balanced with the sweetness of saffron. The rich deep yellow shade would be attributed to the saffron as well. The texture is not heavy which allows it to blend seamlessly in the skin and ‘yellowness’ disappears completely. I use about 2-3 drops and push it in my skin and noticed the skin immediately absorbs it (scent lingers for few minutes). The following morning, my skin is noticeably plump, no visible redness, calm and brighter. It also claims to help with fine lines however I’m not a suitable candidate to assess that at this stage, but I still think it’s wonderful as a preventative measure.

Layered under my favourite serum Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair II, the results following morning are nothing short of WOW. On occasions, I wear my Mixologist hat, and mix this oil with Goodness Labs Chia Seed oil or The Body Shop Vitamin E Overnight Serum in Oil (proportion 2:2 drops). It feels like ‘Pampered Skin from a 12ml Bottle’. I have many facial oils, but this one is reserved as my Treat or Royalty Facial oil.

HHW.com

xx

2015 Flash Back

Needless to say, a LOT has happened this year in the Beauty world but I cannot possibly capture every single event here.

Hope the New Year brings us many more launches, and bring back some discontinued products (referring to The Body Shop Nutriganics range).

Hope you have safe, healthy and happy holidays.

2015 has been the year of Pipette!!!

Every magical potion came from a Pipette! Serums, Oils, Acids, Peels

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Blue Tansy – The ‘IT’ Ingredient of 2015

Some brands that have incorporated the Blue Tansy oil and brought it to the forefront of consumers, Sunday Riley, Herbivore Botanicals, Aster + Bay, May Lindstrom and Raaw in a Jar.

 

Caroline Hirons collaborated with Cult Beauty for Curated Beauty Boxes

CH for CB 1CH for CB 2

Launch – Lisa Eldridge’s labour of love – Face Paint

lisa eldridge book

Launch – H&M Beauty

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Launch – Sephora Beauty Boxes

sephora launch

Launch – Real Techniques Bold Metals Collection

RT Bold Metals Launch

Launch – Hourglass Ambient Lighting Palette

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Discontinued – The Body Shop Nutriganics

 

My Skincare Database

skincare database

My Self Imposed Mission Empties

 

DIY Experiments

Face Masks, Bath Salts, Facial

 

HHW.com

xx

 

Face Oils over Moisturizers?

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In this post, I will unravel the worst kept secret, I prefer oils over moisturizers. WHY you may ask? Before we proceed, I need to clarify on the onset, by NO means am I being conclusive on oils over moisturizers, and neither am I claiming to be 100% Green Beauty person. I love my scientific skincare just as much and have no problems with laboratory generated ingredients. Neither am I saying one is superior to the other; it’s a matter of making an informed and educated choice for your skin. And eventually we all want something that works and does its job as it claims.

Moving on…..Over the last couple of posts we’ve been through, types of oils, their formulation, and extraction processes which impact overall quality of oil. I’m blatantly assuming you already know some, if not all benefits of oils.

Any basic oil formulation is a well measured and balanced blend of carrier and essential oils to benefit the skin. However, moisturizers are a slightly different story. Let’s start with analyzing, some popular oils and their ingredient listing.

Left pic – MV Organic Rose Booster Plus

Camellia (Camellia Sinensis) Oil*,  Jojoba (Simmondsia Chinesis) Oil*, Rosehip (Rosa Canina Fruit) Oil*, Rose (Rosa Damascena) Oil, Geranium (Pelargonium Roseum) Oil, Vitamin E non GM (Tocopherol), Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis) Extract* With essential oil of: Rose Otto and Rose Geranium  (* Organically Grown)

Right pic – Essano Rosehip Oil

Rosa Canina (Rosehip), Fruit Oil (Ingredients from organic farming), Euterpe Oleracea (Acai) Pulp Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate (VitaminE).

Now focusing the ingredient listing specifically on moisturizers. In the spirit of simplifying ingredient listing, you need to only focus on bold ingredients (bottom of the post).

Generally, all moisturizers start with Water/Aqua. Once you add water to any formulation, you need to add other classes/categories of ingredients to achieve right consistency, texture, absorption properties and longevity in a formulation.

Please note: This list is not expected to contain all ingredients in the products below; instead it is intended to identify different categories/classes of ingredients added to a typical moisturizer formulation with some examples of ingredients in each category. The list of ingredients in the beauty world is exhaustive.

  • Surfectants – PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, and PEG-40 stearate are mild cleansing agents, Laureth-7
  • Alcohols – Benzyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Alcohol Denat (most drying but in some formulations its necessary), Batyl Alcohol
  • Skin Conditioning – Propylene Glycol, Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline Aspartate
  • Emollients – Panthenol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Acetate
  • Emulsifiers/Thickener – Paraffin, PEG (-4, -6, -8, -10, -12, -14, -16, -18, -32, -40 -100 Stearate, -150, -200, -350) Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate 20,40,60,80, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Carbomer, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
  • Silicone – Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, acrylates/dimethicone copolymer, cetyl dimethicone, caprylyl methicone, dimethicone crosspolymer, methyl trimethicone, polysilicone-11, siloxane, triethoxycaprylylsilane, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, methicone
  • Preservatives – Phenoxyethanol, Borax, diazolidinyl urea (releases formaldehyde, should be avoided), sodium benzoate, sodium citrate, sorbic acid, Parabens (isobutylparaben, methylparaben, butylparaben, propylparaben, methylparaben, and ethylparaben)

These don’t necessarily imply the ingredients are “bad”, “toxic”, “harmful” ingredients. I guess it’s a matter of making an informed choice if you’d like to apply all these to your skin or directly apply oils (in its purest form….as much as possible). I chose the latter for my skin, as it works just fine for me. So whilst majority of the times, I prefer oils and balms for my skin occasionally I love the ritual of opening a jar of thick whipped white cream, dipping my fingers in the jar and slathering the cream all over my skin. It’s a different sense of pleasure in that ritual.

Side Note

When you’re reading your ingredient listing Mineral Oil can be listed in various names such as C13-14 Isoparaffin, Petrolatum, Paraffinum liquidum, Paraffin Oil, Liquid Paraffin, White oil, Hydrocarbon oil, Petroleum Hydrocarbon.

Ingredient Lists for you to peruse:

Tula Skincare Night and Day Cream

Water (Aqua), Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Squalane (plant derived), Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Lactose, Milk Protein, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Yogurt Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Root Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract, Vegetable Oil, Camelina Sativa Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Ascorbic Acid, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Citrullus Vulgaris (Watermelon) Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Fruit Extract, Bulnesia Sarmientoi Wood Oil, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil, Juniperus Mexicana Oil, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, Sodium Carbonate, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 20, Beeswax (CeraAlba), Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium EDTA, Disodium EDTA, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Dr Scheller Lavender Night Cream for Sensitive Skin

AQUA (WATER), HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL*, GLYCERIN, SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL*, COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) OIL*, GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) FRUIT OIL*, SQUALANE, CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE, BENZYL ALCOHOL, PLUKENETIA VOLUBILIS (INCA INCHI) SEED OIL*, LAVANDULA ANGUSTIFOLIA (LAVENDER) FLOWER EXTRACT*, BISABOLOL, GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA (LICORICE) ROOT EXTRACT*, GELLAN GUM, PARFUM (FRAGRANCE)**, LINALOOL**, LIMONENE**, GERANIOL**, BENZYL SALICYLATE**, COUMARIN**, CITRAL**, XANTHAN GUM, STEARIC ACID, PALMITIC ACID, POTASSIUM SORBATE, TOCOPHEROL *ingredients from certified organic agriculture **from natural essential oils

Context Skin Night Cream

Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Squalane, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Stearic Acid, Sodium PCA, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 20, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Hydrolyzed Silk, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Panthenol, Ethylhexylglcerin, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, o-Cymen-5-ol, Phenoxyethanol.

Clarins Hydra Quench Cream

Water, Glycerin, Diethylhexyl Succinate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Silica, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxystearate/Tetraisostearate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Polyacrylamide, Caprylyl Glycol, Fragrance, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Ethylhexyl Glycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Tetrasodium EDTA, Butylene Glycol, Dimethiconol, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Tocopherol, Laureth-7, Cedrelopsis Grevei Bark Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Pyrus Sorbus Bud Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Lapsana Communis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Potassium Sorbate

CLINIQUE Moisture Surge Intense For Very Dry To Dry Combination Skin

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Squalane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat Bran) Extract, Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Extract, Caffeine, Whey Protein\Lactis Protein, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Powder, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria), Cholesterol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Petrolatum, PEG-150, Sucrose, Pyridoxine Dipalmitate, Linoleic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Citric Acid, Polysilicone-11, Propylene Carbonate, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, PEG-8, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hexametaphosphate, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol

Kate Somerville Deep Tissue Repair Cream with Peptide K8™

Water, Stearic Acid, Ceteareth-20, Cetearyl Alcohol, Isopropyl Myristate, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil,Squalane, Cholesterol, Urea, Sodium PCA, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Silk Powder, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, Butylene Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Xanthan Gum, Polyquaternium-51, Trehalose, Tocopheryl Acetate, Fragrance, Allantoin, Limonene, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ceramide 2, Citric Acid, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Tribehenin, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Triacetin, Copper PCA, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzoic Acid, Geraniol, Disodium EDTA.

Kate Somerville Oil Free Moisturizer

Water, Pentaerythrityl Tetracaprylate/Tetracaprate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isocetyl Stearate, Dimethicone, Sodium Polyacrylate, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Nylon-6, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Octanoate, Xylitolglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Algae Extract, Pullulan, Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Trideceth-6, Triethanolamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol.

Kate Somerville Nourish Daily Moisturizer

Water, Cetyl Lactate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Triethanolamine, Chlorphenesin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Parfum/Fragrance, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Carbomer, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Disodium EDTA, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Polysorbate 20, Retinyl Palmitate, Limonene.

Zelens Stem Cell Rejuvenating Overnight Treatment

Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Ethylhexyldodecanol, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Propylene Glycol, Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline Aspartate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Polysilicone-11, Butylene Glycol, Polyacrylamide, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Acrylate/Carbamate Copolymer, Triethanolamine, Carbomer, Ozonized Oryza Sativa Callus Culture Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Laureth-7, Parfum (Fragrance), Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Dextran, Salicylic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Linalool, Helichrysum Italicum Extract, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Pentapeptide-31.

HHW.com

xx

Change in Formulation: Pixi Glow Tonic

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Recently it came to my attention that Pixi Glow Tonic have a slight change in their formulation. With the help of Sal from Ummbaby we also noted a change in packaging, labelling and colour of the product.

To begin, let’s dive into the ingredient listing aka the core of any product:

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(Left – Old Formulation————— Right – New Formulation)

OLD Formulation (from Pixi Website): 

Ingredients: Aqua, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract, Glycolic Acid, Ammonium Glycolate, Glycerin, Glucose, Fructose, Sucrose, Urea, Dextrin, Alanine, Glutamic Acid, Hexyl Nicotinate, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Biotin, Polysorbate 20, Fragrance.

Ingredients are subject to change. For the most complete and up-to-date list of ingredients, refer to the product packaging. Made in the USA.

NEW Formulation (from my recent product purchase packaging):

Note: new additions are in Bold font.

Ingredients: Aqua, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract, Glycolic Acid, Ammonium Glycolate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Hexylene Gycol, Glucose, Fructose, Sucrose, Urea, Dextrin, Alanine, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Hexyl Nicotinate, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Biotin, Polysorbate 20, Fragrance.

Ingredients are subject to change. For the most complete and up-to-date list of ingredients, refer to the product packaging. Made in the USA.

Well if you’re still reading this after being bombarded with inci list jargon,  I guess your first question is What are these ingredients and What is their purpose in life?

Butylene Glycol (chemical compound) and Hexylene Glycol are clear colourless liquids which are used as solvents, and viscosity decreasing agents. Pixi comments, “To be compliant in the USA the Ingredient Listing itemized all the ingredients, even carrier systems. Butylene glycol and hexylene glycol are used solvents, serving as ingredient carriers.

Aspartic Acid: Aspartic acid is one of two acidic amino acids and they are the building blocks of proteins.  Aspartic acid and glutamic acid play important roles as general acids in enzyme active centers, as well as in maintaining the solubility and ionic character of proteins.

The 20 most common amino acids found in proteins are: Alanine, Arginine, Asparagine, Aspartic Acid, Cysteine, Glutamic Acid, Glutamine, Glycine, Histidine, Isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Serine, Threonine, Tryptophan, Tyrosine and Valine (I’ve probably killed you with TMI by now!)

Pixi comments, “Aspartic acid is an amino acid and used as a skin conditioning agent.

Now moving onto the packaging and labelling of the bottles. 

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As you can tell from pic above, the newer bottle is taller and leaner (all I ever wanted to be!), whilst the older bottle is slightly shorter in height and rounder in frame (sigh, the brutality of life!). Just to reiterate the injustice of life here’s another pic.

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Onto Change in Product Labelling

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Minor, nothing to rant about.

Now if you have a keen eye for attention to detail, you may have already noticed a slight change in Colour!!!

Here’s what Pixi commented on colour, “We also use natural colorants, so the color will vary slightly between each batch.

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We all know the packaging, labelling are all game of aesthetics, but does the change in formulation and colour impact the product and its efficacy?

So I tested Pixi Glow Tonic’s (newer version) ph level at home with two different tester kits and the results were as follows:

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The first kit indicated 5 as the ph level. For any acid to be properly effective, the ph level needs to be anywhere between 3-4. Despite having 5% Glycolic Acid, high ph level wouldn’t allow the acid to tingle the skin. Pixi Glow Tonic is very mild and soothing for the skin which makes it an excellent choice for sensitive skin peeps (although sensitivities vary from individual to individual therefore not conclusive) or as a morning toner with sunscreen (obviously!!!).

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Second testing kit indicated same results as above.

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After such a deep analysis of it all, I wish I had a more juicy answer and say yessss I noticed a difference in its performance and results blah blah blah. Fortunately or Unfortunately (however you take this), No I didn’t notice any change, in terms of its smell, texture, performance, and results. Having said that, if you have noticed something different, I’d love to hear you from, please leave a comment below or reach out to me on Instagram.

HHW.com

xx

All Comparison Pictures Courtesy: Sal from Ummbaby 

Thank you darling, this is post couldn’t have been possible with your comparison pictures xoxox